Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1980
Page Views: 7,994 total · 44/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Jun 10, 2009
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A thin, clean flake that starts as a wide, lower-angle layback but thins and steepens into a hand crack.

This is a good route to combine with the routes at Private Idaho and Them for a bunch of 5.9 climbing next to each other.

Location Suggest change

Located at the left side of the cliff. Approaching from the west (nearer Rattletale), at a short crest in the trail you will see a gully with a knotted hand line. Although you can go up this handline, it is better to continue up the trail until you are directly underneath the route. Just to your right is another gully-corner with a handline direct to the route's base. 

The climb is in an overlap area with a steep white wall on the right (the Bobcat Cringe) and right behind a huge fir tree on the ledge. A little to the left is a flared, left-facing chimney below a huge roof.

Rap with 1 rope.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack with a couple of 3" pieces and a bigger piece for the start. A #5 C4 works at the beginning or run it out a little and place a #4 higher.

History Suggest change

The very first route at Lookout Point. The first time there we got to the base by scrambling up the gully directly below the route, grabbing some vine maple branches. Perhaps only a year or so later we added the handline to the next gully down (west). That handline, at what, 40 years on, is still solid. But a newer handline is often drier and more direct in the original gully, uphill and east.  

Photos

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