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otey sticking the crux(?) crimp...
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 11, 2009
I always considered the crux to be higher, going through the upper roof.
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 11, 2009
On redpoint, I would most certainly agree. In terms of the hardest single move on the route, however, I would say this takes the cake.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 11, 2009
Really? What about the move to the rail after the ledge?
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 11, 2009
That's a tough one too. I'm 6'1" so that move is quite a bit easier for me. The bottom crux to the crimp is somewhat scrunchy so doesn't suit me as well. Perhaps what you gain by being tall for the rail-move is negated by the difficulties of the bottom crux.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 11, 2009
It's pretty cool that the route has so many hard moves. What about the big strength-sapping move out right before the roof? When I'd get there, I'd be feeling great, and then once I would make the move out right, I'd be instantly pumped.

Such a classic route.
By James Otey
From: NH
Jun 11, 2009
HA! I had the exact same experience last time I got on it. I was feeling great then all of a sudden comes the huge move out right with utterly terrible feet. Make the clip, trying to ignore how pumped I'm getting only to fall at the roof..damn. At least I got the dreaded one-hang.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 11, 2009
i've not been on the route :( so i was going on hear say, but Eman Zeb and otey said this was the hardest move but that there was a serious redpoint crux at the top... i hope to heal my silly finger problem and find out for my self :)
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 11, 2009
i made a slight change to the caption that will clear this up :)
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 11, 2009
I find the crux a little higher, doing the long move from the crimpy undercling to the handrail, but I am only 5.8. I was working this route a little early this year for the barefoot ascent. I could do the lower crux no problem, but I have never managed the undercling move without shoes. The route is definitely pumpy getting up to the rest below the roof. If you get the rest properly and have good beta, the final roof should not be too bad.
By seth hamel
Jun 15, 2009
ooooh!! i like this discussion! I also think the hardest move is that first low boulder problem, but, the redpoint crux was pulling through the roof for me, .. i would just run out of gas, in large part because when pulling around the corner of the roof i barn door on one of the moves, pretty sapping stuff. I fell after pulling the roof once when going for the send.. all in all.. i think the route offers absolutely stunning climbing..
By Hilary Harris
Nov 18, 2010
Looks like nobody's talked about this route for awhile! I am dying to know what the easy beta is in the roof. I keep hearing that there is such a thing but have been unable to figure it out. And BTW - the hardest move on the route is after this first crux going up to the rail if you are 5'4". Does anyone know what the shortest ascent is of this route?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 18, 2010
Wear high heels, Hilary.
By James Otey
From: NH
Nov 24, 2010
My friend Lily avoided the second crux by going out right. Made it look like 5.11, but I have no idea how...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 25, 2010
i saw it... it was amazing...
By James Otey
From: NH
Nov 25, 2010
She said it felt like about 5.11 too. Thats what happens when you have immaculate technique I suppose.
By Mike Mastanduno
Mar 19, 2012
Is the left hand in this picture a very bad blocky pinch? This is just at the top of the bottom boulder problem, yeah?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 20, 2012
yeah, pretty much...
By Seth Cohen
Apr 23, 2014
RE: short-person beta for the middle crux (the move to the slopey rail):

I'm 5'7", and the move to the rail is a dyno for me (and thus basically impossible). I figured out a way to tech my way over to the arete to the right, go up the arete, and then move back left to the rail. Without giving away too much beta, from the no-hands rest, stay low and use low feet, a pinch, and a tiny left-hand sidepull. That'll get you to the arete. It's five or six moves to the tall person's one, but it works!
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otey sticking the crux(?) crimp...

Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 11, 2009
On this route:
Thin Man (5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c )
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