I always considered the crux to be higher, going through the upper roof.

On redpoint, I would most certainly agree. In terms of the hardest single move on the route, however, I would say this takes the cake.

Really? What about the move to the rail after the ledge?

That's a tough one too. I'm 6'1" so that move is quite a bit easier for me. The bottom crux to the crimp is somewhat scrunchy so doesn't suit me as well. Perhaps what you gain by being tall for the rail-move is negated by the difficulties of the bottom crux.

It's pretty cool that the route has so many hard moves. What about the big strength-sapping move out right before the roof? When I'd get there, I'd be feeling great, and then once I would make the move out right, I'd be instantly pumped.

Such a classic route.

HA! I had the exact same experience last time I got on it. I was feeling great then all of a sudden comes the huge move out right with utterly terrible feet. Make the clip, trying to ignore how pumped I'm getting only to fall at the roof..damn. At least I got the dreaded one-hang.

i've not been on the route :( so i was going on hear say, but Eman Zeb and otey said this was the hardest move but that there was a serious redpoint crux at the top... i hope to heal my silly finger problem and find out for my self :)

i made a slight change to the caption that will clear this up :)

I find the crux a little higher, doing the long move from the crimpy undercling to the handrail, but I am only 5.8. I was working this route a little early this year for the barefoot ascent. I could do the lower crux no problem, but I have never managed the undercling move without shoes. The route is definitely pumpy getting up to the rest below the roof. If you get the rest properly and have good beta, the final roof should not be too bad.

ooooh!! i like this discussion! I also think the hardest move is that first low boulder problem, but, the redpoint crux was pulling through the roof for me, .. i would just run out of gas, in large part because when pulling around the corner of the roof i barn door on one of the moves, pretty sapping stuff. I fell after pulling the roof once when going for the send.. all in all.. i think the route offers absolutely stunning climbing..

Looks like nobody's talked about this route for awhile! I am dying to know what the easy beta is in the roof. I keep hearing that there is such a thing but have been unable to figure it out. And BTW - the hardest move on the route is after this first crux going up to the rail if you are 5'4". Does anyone know what the shortest ascent is of this route?

Wear high heels, Hilary.

My friend Lily avoided the second crux by going out right. Made it look like 5.11, but I have no idea how...

i saw it... it was amazing...

She said it felt like about 5.11 too. Thats what happens when you have immaculate technique I suppose.

Is the left hand in this picture a very bad blocky pinch? This is just at the top of the bottom boulder problem, yeah?

yeah, pretty much...