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Looking for partner(s) to climb in the Blanca of Peru this summer

Original Post
Tony Yeary · · Arcadia, Califoria · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 730

I'm looking to hook up with 1-3 others who would like to climb in the Blanca this summer. I'm looking at mid June-July as a time period.
I have climbed there on previous trips and know my way around.
Alpamayo, Artesonraju, Peaks above the Ishinca Valley, anything would be just fine with me. I just want to climb. Email tony_yeary@hotmail and we can talk details.

Chris Craig · · Redstone, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 110

Hi Tony, I am looking for the same. I have been down there a couple of times before. I have about 2 weeks. Would like to do some acclimitization routes and then AlpaMayo and Artesanraju (sp).

Lets talk,
Chris
520-548-6652

Tony Yeary · · Arcadia, Califoria · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 730

That post was from last summer. I not sure if I'm going down this year or not yet. There are a few things in the Sierra I want to do and I've been putting them off for a few years now do to trips to Peru. If I can help you guys out with beta or contacts let me know.
Two weeks is barely enough time for travel and proper acclimatization.
You would have about 4 days of travel( from your door to Huaraz and back) At least 2 days of acclimatization in Huaraz, buying food ect...
You would have about one week to climb. You might beable to pull off Alpamayo in 6-7 days. Artesonraju would take almost as long. Routes on 5000 meter peaks in the Ishinca might be more reasonable. Ishinca and Urus Este. Do not under-estimate your acclimatization. You will spend the time either being sick or acclimating, so you might as well be healthy and go slow, at first.
Tony

Chad Harmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

A friend and I are one person away from heading down to the Blanca during the first two weeks of August. Looking to do two mountains with the 2nd (higher) one being something 6300m+ like Chopicalqui, Huandoy, possibly Huascaran if it's in. I'm in Boulder, CO; my friend is in Boston. I'll post this to a new topic as well since this thread hasn't seen comment for awhile. Any feedback is appreciated.

Chad

Tony Yeary · · Arcadia, Califoria · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 730

Chad,
Do you only have two weeks total in Huaraz? If so, you will be pressed for time to get some proper acclimatization, especially if you want to climb a 6000 meter peak and not be a suffer machine.

Chad Harmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Hi, Tony. Thanks for the input. Acclimatization is a definite concern, but one advantage to living in Boulder is that there are ways to hedge. For example, a couple friends of mine slept on top of Mt. Evans (14200+) nearby for a week before they went to the Blanca, and it helped a bit.

Having said that, I've heard from guides that acute mountain sickness is referred to by some on Denali as the "Colorado flu" due to folks from CO racing up the mountain and suffering because of it... the benefits of living a mile up do have their limits, and I'd be sure to keep that in mind. 3- (or more) week vacations aren't in the cards, though.

Since August is approaching quickly, the trip is in doubt for this year.

Thanks again, Tony, and if you have any other tips, I'd welcome them.

Chad

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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