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Arapahoe glacier to S. Arapaho peak

Original Post
davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

Hello all, I am pretty comfortable on snow and ice but now instead of my ski boots I am moving into the alpine realm. I am thinking of going up Arapaho glacier to S. Arapaho peak this weekend to get some use/practice out of my crampons and ice ax.

I saw a few routes on here, star wars routes, but was concerned they might be too steep to do alone.
I was originally thinking of the glacier to the ridge line. Have any of you been up there and can give me an idea of where to go once I am up on the 4th of July trail??

Thanks!
I just don't really want to get all the way up there and guess, especially by myself.

Jeff Fox · · Delaware, OH · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,320

Isn't that the one that's in the Boulder watershed, and is highly illegal to be on? And accessing it, were it legal to do so, from the 4th of July TH would be problematic too.

davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

I don't know, the ranger at the Boulder Dist. told me that would be a good place to practice and climb from... I would have thought she would have told me its illegal.
There are lots of routes on here up the peak too. Maybe I don't start from the glacier itself? I have never been up there, so I am not sure where to go. Hopefully someone can help here...

Jeff Fox · · Delaware, OH · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,320

I found this on the web:

  • The entire drainage below Arapaho Glacier is closed to hikers/campers, since it is owned by the City of Boulder and supplies the city's drinking water. Though some of the snow/ice routes up the glacier look tempting, they are illegal, and reportedly enforced vigorously.
  • North and South Arapaho Peak is home to the Arapaho Glacier, the largest glacier in the Front Range. It is the main water source for the Boulder Watershed program and is off limits to the public. The city of Boulder owns this watershed and much of the land surrounding it. Most of the new U.S Forest Service quads will show the boundary in detail. If you make the decision to hike anywhere around this watershed, please educate yourself concerning the boundaries. Getting caught hiking illegally through this private property will only result in a substantial fine.
davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

Ok, I called her back and basically she said that from the overlook you can cut through the watershed area but they don't want you going back down to the east into the actual lakes area. She said stay north and west of the line for the peak and dont go east and I will be fine.

So sounds easy enough. I am guessing then I can follow the trail up and when I get to the base I will hopefully see some boot pack up either on the ridge line or the couliers?

any thoughts on the r2d2 route shown here?
welcomehome.org/rob/local-m…

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Check out the Apache Couloir or Queens Way. I've been waiting the past few weeks for the weather systems to settle and let the snowpack stabalize...Looks like this weekend might be good or at least the start of of the spring season. If I get out there this weekend, I'll post on the conditions as I'm not sure if it's a little to early for these routes.

summitpost.org/mountain/roc…

Anybody know if the road at Brainard Lake is clear? I'm guessing it might be from all the precip we've been getting. Be nice to not have to walk the extra 5 miles.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Yeah, apache couloir is a great hike and climb, I've done it solo in july in just AT boots with ski poles, but maybe that was stupid as it is pretty steep. The headwall of the glacier just to the south is way steep and could be rad too. But unless brainard road is open (I don't think it is yet, maybe I'm wrong) that's a hell of a walk. Lots of people park at the gate and ride bikes up to the trail heads, that's an option.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Here's a nicely compiled list.
summitpost.org/list/191900/…

Also Najavo Peak...
summitpost.org/mountain/roc…

I'm not 100% sure how much this screwy weather has impacted the mountains lately...could be interesting.

Be safe!

Margaret T · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Climbed Audobon on snowshoes on Sun & the Brainard Lake road was closed. 1.75 miles up the road to the lake is free and clear by bike. At the lake there are some drifts and at the Mitchell Creek turnoff there are 8' drifts covering the road. Snow was great up there and there were a bunch of AT skiiers on the couloirs.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Thanks Margaret! Were the snowshoes absolutely necessary?

Margaret T · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

I don't know about the Blue Lake trail, but the hike thru the trees to the base of the headwall on the Mitchell Creek trail (up to where the summer trail starts to switchback) REQUIRED snowshoes!! Some poor soul had postholed it out and the holes were a good three feet deep! We were in snowshoes starting at the Mitchell Creek trailhead.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Good to know. Love to not have to carry them, but it's better than postholing!

Margaret T · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

I didn't see anyone else up there who didn't have snowshoes or skis and skins--I would not have tried to climb the headwall without crampons and an ice axe or ski poles and snowshoes. The slope and the snow condition would have made skinning up it almost impossible. The bowl between Audobon and Notobon is beautiful and skiiable, if you are willing to slog it up there. Once you get over the headwall, the snow disappears until you get to the base of Notobon. The bog on the plateau below Audobon is a fully running stream with lots of willows -- to be avoided.

colin tucker · · Monticello, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 35

Dave,
I sounds like you are describing two different sides of the mountain. The couloirs are on the south side of the ridge to S. Arapahoe, the glacier is on the east and north side. You could go up one and down the other, but you can't go up both without climbing the mountain twice.

davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

Yup, after doing some research and looking at the map I posted above, I was talking about two different sides of the mountain.

I am going to try the Skywalker Coulier. I believe I leave from 4th of July trail, then keep hiking up until I get to the base of the peak. from the pictures and trip reports I have seen, it sounds like it will be pretty obvious where the chutes are from the trail.
Then to come back down I believe I can summit, then head northwest on the ridge line and follow the trail/ridge back down.
I will be in my crampons/ax for the climb.

Sound about right?
Thanks! Can't wait to get out!
Dave

Oh, here's that map... maybe I didn't post it...
summitpost.org/view_object.…

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Check out the trip report from Andy Leach....looks like a steepie!!
I might access the peaks via the Brainard Lake access areas...

summitpost.org/route/155854…

The weather is a consideration as they are looking at thunderstorms around the 1 pm time frame with about a 40% chance of precip. Of course in Colorado that means nothing...

davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

Definitely keeping an eye on the weather. I looked up the NOAA pinpoint and noon is the cut off for sure. I am going to get up REALLY early. A nice alpine start in the dark. I figure since its not going to get below 40, I need to hit it and be down by 11:30 at the latest.
I can always bail if need be. The best climber in the world is the one that comes home alive :)

Here's a good shot of the exits. He has some great photos on there. Especially showing the steepness up top.
summitpost.org/view_object.…

davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

Well, I climber skywalker on Saturday. It was awesome. I had to climb the rocks on the right at the top though since the snow was getting really wet and sliding out under my feet once it got 50+degrees.

Here's some pics if you are interested.
kodakgallery.com/ShareLandi…

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Nice work man! Glad to see that weather worked out for you. We decided to opt for Sunday out after we got DUMPED on climbing in the Allenspark / Estes area on Saturday. Sleet and heavy rain. We were picking snow off our T-shirts.

Glad to see it was a success!!!

davebks · · Louisville, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 60

Thanks! It was a great first day out on my new gear. I am really excited about this alpine thing. There is SO much to climb back there too. Thank you all for helping me make Saturday so successful!

talkinrocks · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 80

Hey Dave, Strong work. I was one of the skiers (group of 4, 3 gals and 1 guy) you talked to and took our picture that morning on our way to Mt. Neva. Thanks for the pics. I assume that is us in your slideshow? Hopefully you were not one of the many people still climbing Skywalker at noon!! We saw probably 6 climbers in the choke of the couloir when we were hiking out. We had a later start than I like, but skied off Neva at 1030 and the snow was a bit soft and punchy. A good ski though. We were amazed to see people still climbing in the middle of the couloir at 1200! It was blazing hot and wet slides abound and thunderstorms looming. There were also climbers in some really tight couloirs on the other side of the valley that we saw at 1230 still climbing from the bottom! Hope everyone made it out ok.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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