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Routes in Pywiack Dome
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Aqua Knobby T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Clash of the Titans T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dike Route, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Electric Africa T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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European Vacation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Foote Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Bars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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House Calls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Medusa S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Meltdown, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Needle & Spoon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rising Sun S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown 5.6 (aka Happy Wanderer) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Unnatural Act T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Unreliable Narrator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2 M3+ Steep Snow |
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Zee Tree T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Gerughty, Evje, & Meeks - 1966 |
| Page Views: | 12,887 total · 60/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Dike Route follows an obvious system of (generally left-leaning) dikes up the right-hand end of Pywiak Dome. It is a great climb, but not for the faint-of-heart. Be very confident running it out on slabs -- the crux fourth pitch has the potential for 60-80' falls on 5.8 terrain in two different places, and a 30' fall on 5.9 ground. The other pitches are easier, but still very sparsely protected.
P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.
P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.
P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.
P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.
P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).
P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.
P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.
P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.
P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.
P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).
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