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My buddy AJ climbing UR
Id# 106433023, 300 x 400px
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2014
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 18, 2009
p2 refuse?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 18, 2009
that was my guess...
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
May 27, 2009
Exactly (+/- a little artistic/photographic re-composition)
By BGraham
From: Fullerton, CA
Sep 21, 2009
5.5? gulp.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sep 22, 2009
BGrahm, this picture is on the slightly harder variation, not to mention the angle is tweaked abit as Antin said. The easiest way is up a low angle crack on the face that his foot is on. 5.5 for sure
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 22, 2009
I thought this was the .9 pitch on refuse, not upper refuse.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sep 22, 2009
pretty sure it's the final moves on the corner variation of the last pitch of upper refuse
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Sep 22, 2009
I've been known to be wrong though...
By BGraham
From: Fullerton, CA
Sep 22, 2009
whew! thanks for the heads up. great photo regardless!
By Russ Keane
Sep 17, 2013
This photo is absolutely NOT upper refuse. I just did this climb this weekend and this section of rock is not on Upper Refuse.
By chris magness
Sep 22, 2013
Time for this thread to end. I'm not an authority on the subject, but that is Upper Refuse. It's a misleading photo, the angle is incredibly tweaked. Climbers climbing this route for the first time should not expect terrain as depicted in this photo, although the corner variation is slightly more difficult the grade is probably still 5.5.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Sep 23, 2013
I don't know if it is Upper Refuse or not but the angle of the photo is not tweaked. You can tell by the angle of the ropes hanging straight down. If the angle was tweaked to make it look steeper the ropes would be touching the rock. Also the gear on his harness is hanging straight down. Both are dead giveaways of a photo that was not angled to look steeper.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 23, 2013
Ahhh. yes, left variation just a little bit from the top. Way tweaked. Photographer in the tree?
By Russ Keane
Oct 2, 2013
There's no reason not to bicker about it .. :)


.. The point about the ropes and gear hanging straight down is valid. That may look like that left corner variation at the very tip top of Upper Refuse, but it's not even close to that steep. It's like a 5.3 up there, and while those left moves are tricky it can't be that bad! Plus -- Look at the arrangement of the rock at that exit move. I don't recall it looking like that.
By Dan Felix
Oct 10, 2013
Ok, I just went through pictures. My wife and I just got married at the top of Cathedral after climbing UR, so we have quite a few pictures of the route- both while on the route and the route as viewed from the road.

My first thought when I saw the pic was there was no way it was UR. Then I thought maybe it was from right below the pine tree belay ledge. After looking at my pics (I will upload a few), I can definitively say it IS Upper Refuse. It is not below the tree belay ledge though. It is near the very top of the route, basically at the exit. Yes, there were a lot of liberties involved with this pic, but it IS UR! Look at the rock behind the climbers back in this pic, and compare it to one of the ones I will upload- a pic from the road shows it well.

J. Antin, if you see this, I believe the harness I wore for the wedding climb is one I bought from you. ;)
By Russ Keane
Nov 19, 2013
He's right. Thanks for the final word!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
4 days ago
Yup. Upper Refuse. Guided this many times (100+). It's the left-hand variation to the last 15 feet or so of what is traditionally the 3rd pitch. Harder than the standard finish ten feet to the right that ascends the face, blunt arete, and left-slanting crack. In Lee Hansche's photo ("Alex on the exposed upper...") the climber is about five feet lower than the climber in this photo and ten feet to the climber's right. The perspective makes it look a lot harder than it is. There is a wiggly little chockstone that you can sling for the opening move up the crack. I've been happily slinging that chockstone since the early 1980s. One move might be 5.6. It's wonderful.
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My buddy AJ climbing UR

Submitted By: J Antin on May 16, 2009
On this route:
Upper Refuse (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a )
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