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Routes in Secret Crag (aka Ridge 6)
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Bob's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Burning Down the House S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Completion Backword Principle S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Eldorado Gold S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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In Plain View S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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King of Pain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mind Control S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Opus 73 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peri-less Journey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Powder Finger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Riding With the King S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Three-Stage Traverse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Top Down Design S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Anderson, Kepley, Jesik, Bronson |
| Page Views: | 1,439 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tzilla Rapdrilla on May 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
King of Pain
This route is located on the lower portion of Secret Crag in the section that has the obvious, right-leaning dihedrals and the brighter, red-colored rock. This route follows the rightmost dihedral to the lip of the overhang.
Start off the ledge by the tree, surmount the initial bulge and go straight up instead of left (another route). Really nice face climbing wanders back and forth heading for the dihedral above. Although it appears that the dihedral will provide a break, the climbing only gets harder. Long reaches from small holds keep the difficulty up all the way to the roof. 12 or 13 clips in all.
The story: A string of bad luck will probably keep me from ever going back there despite this being a great area and route. It all started when I was putting the route in. Unable to get the bolts in on the first day, I left a rope fixed overnight. Although I secured it well, the winds rubbed a gobie right in the middle of the rope. The next time up with a whole crew I had my foot slip into the snow while stepping over a large, dead tree. Feeling a scratch in my calf from a jagged broken branch I looked back glad to see that I didn't tear my new fleece pants, so I kept walking up the hill. Once at the base of the route I decided to take a look at my leg. Pulling up my pant leg revealed a 3" square section of my calf muscle, not a pretty sight. With help from will, Chris and Brian I hobbled out and was off to the ER. The climbing day was ruined and I got 22 stitches.
The next time it was even worse. After lowering off the route and past the sloping ledge to the ground, I set a top-rope belay for my partner. I walked back uphill a short distance to a flat spot to belay. A combination of factors when Todd fell, including funky rope dynamics, using a revolver on the top point to reduce drag, and who knows what else lifted me off the ground and swung me past the part of the wall that was only a few feet away slamming me into the wall 60 feet or so away. This time it was a shattered heel. Mostly crawling and with help from Todd, Dan, & Dana I got back to the car and was off to the ER again (my wife was really becoming annoyed at this point). My son, now all too familiar with this drill could only fret about the early end to another snowboard season on the way to the hospital. After surgery, a blood clot, a few days in the hospital, 4 months on crutches, learning to walk again, and plenty of pain killers most of the 2008 season went down the tubes. I hope that everyone else who goes up there has better luck than me.... It's really no fun being the king of pain.
Start off the ledge by the tree, surmount the initial bulge and go straight up instead of left (another route). Really nice face climbing wanders back and forth heading for the dihedral above. Although it appears that the dihedral will provide a break, the climbing only gets harder. Long reaches from small holds keep the difficulty up all the way to the roof. 12 or 13 clips in all.
The story: A string of bad luck will probably keep me from ever going back there despite this being a great area and route. It all started when I was putting the route in. Unable to get the bolts in on the first day, I left a rope fixed overnight. Although I secured it well, the winds rubbed a gobie right in the middle of the rope. The next time up with a whole crew I had my foot slip into the snow while stepping over a large, dead tree. Feeling a scratch in my calf from a jagged broken branch I looked back glad to see that I didn't tear my new fleece pants, so I kept walking up the hill. Once at the base of the route I decided to take a look at my leg. Pulling up my pant leg revealed a 3" square section of my calf muscle, not a pretty sight. With help from will, Chris and Brian I hobbled out and was off to the ER. The climbing day was ruined and I got 22 stitches.
The next time it was even worse. After lowering off the route and past the sloping ledge to the ground, I set a top-rope belay for my partner. I walked back uphill a short distance to a flat spot to belay. A combination of factors when Todd fell, including funky rope dynamics, using a revolver on the top point to reduce drag, and who knows what else lifted me off the ground and swung me past the part of the wall that was only a few feet away slamming me into the wall 60 feet or so away. This time it was a shattered heel. Mostly crawling and with help from Todd, Dan, & Dana I got back to the car and was off to the ER again (my wife was really becoming annoyed at this point). My son, now all too familiar with this drill could only fret about the early end to another snowboard season on the way to the hospital. After surgery, a blood clot, a few days in the hospital, 4 months on crutches, learning to walk again, and plenty of pain killers most of the 2008 season went down the tubes. I hope that everyone else who goes up there has better luck than me.... It's really no fun being the king of pain.
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