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Note the not-needed bolt.
Id# 106422216, 1631 x 1018px View full size
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2014
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
May 4, 2009
That bolt(er) should be ashamed of itself.
By slim
Administrator
May 5, 2009
Welcome to Colorado (or at least the Front Range)....
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
May 15, 2009
Dude, trad gear is like, hella sketchy. I mean, who even knows if those cammy things work?
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
May 15, 2009
Dude, seriously...what the hell??
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Jun 22, 2009
Man, that's the s**t that gets bolts chopped. I hate that. Great shot though.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 25, 2009
Also, note the "not-needed-bolt" that he clipped (center right of photo).
By slim
Administrator
Aug 25, 2009
It's better to start the route further to the right (i.e. climber's right, which would be to the viewer of the photo's left). There are a couple gear opportunities, and it straightens the line out a bit.
By clay meier
Nov 2, 2009
CHOP IT!
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Dec 22, 2009
I am a trad climber and I am not advocating bolting cracks, but the FA wants the bolts there and it is in CCC, so all of you choppers need to put your pry bars away.
EDIT: Indeed who cares that it is in CCC, but the FA wants the bolts there and anti-bolt folks always live by the FA rule, so it only seems reasonable that the rule works in favor of bolts too.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 22, 2009
This line was climbed without bolts many times before they were added. Just because it is in CCC is a lame excuse. The entire line can be lead without bolts.
By blakeherrington
Jan 29, 2010
@Wiledhorse - In my photo caption I said note THE not-needed BOLT.
That would be in reference to the (1, singular) bolt, easily visible in the photo. The first bolt on route, visible below, is not 6" from a splitter crack. I believe all others are.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2010
Roger that, Blake. I was just saying that you don't need any bolts on the route if you want to split hairs (including the first one you clipped). Either way, the route is not that memorable.
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jan 29, 2010
Bolts in a sport climbing area!?!? No way! If you're gonna clip one, why not just all of them.
By dameeser
From: denver
Jul 8, 2010
I was thinking the same as Slim. Starting further to the climbers right where the crack starts.
By ClimberRunner
From: Redmond, WA
Jul 26, 2010
@darth jables- because real men know how to place cams. ;) Ever heard of mixed routes?
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jul 27, 2010
What's a cam?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 27, 2010
J, I think they are like those bulky, colorful quickdraws with springs and lobes and finger trigger thing that they use in Indian Creek.

Besides, the trad way to do this route is to 1) not clip any bolts, including the pesky 'lower-off' anchors, 2) top out and walk off. It wasn't even mixed when I climbed this route for my first time. There are other good trad lines in CCC to get your trad fix. This issue almost as worn out as the cold shuts on the other routes at Lil' Eiger.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 21, 2014
Why bring cams when there is a perfectly good bolt right there?
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Avg Score   5.0 from 7 votes
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Note the not-needed bolt.

Submitted By: blakeherrington on May 4, 2009
On this route:
Headline (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a )
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