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Routes in The Bastille - W Face
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Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Face Directissma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Culp, Alan Clark, John Link, 1968 |
| Page Views: | 4,407 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Kristo torgersen on Jun 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Out to Lunge is located on the west face of the Bastille, uphill from the Blind Faith corner and starts beneath a large coniferous tree.
P1. Begin by either ascending the starting corner of Breakfast in Bed or climbing the slab directly below the initial left-facing corner/ramp system (both are easy 5th class) to a ledge. Climb up this corner (careful of loose rock) to an okay stance below a left-facing flake (the climbing up to this point is quite runout, and I believe it deserves an "s" rating even though Rossiter doesn't give it one). One can place medium TCUs, medium nuts, and possibly a #1 Camalot here before laybacking the flake and manteling onto its top (crux of route). After the mantel, a #8 WC nut fits nicely into a shallow groove to the right. Continue straight up towards the roof on easy, hueco'ed 5.5 climbing. Moving left 5 feet below the roof makes for a long reach between big holds, where climbing straight up to the roof and then left is shorter moves on smaller holds. Place gear before this, because the fixed pin can't be clipped until after the 5.8 moves are made. Bust up left around the arete, and finish up easy face climbing or corner to the broad Bastille descent ledge. If doing only P1, descend as for all other Bastille routes.
P2. Per Michael Komarnitsky: continue up and slightly right up a slab before turning an awkward looking, off-width/chimney crack/roof. It's actually hands and a finger lock once you get up there, but there's a tricky move on the clean face that is unprotectable - THIS warrants an s rating, I believe. Anyways, turn the corner and follow the easy climbing another 15 feet to the ridge and belay. I thought this was definitely better than 1 star, 2 stars in my book.
P1. Begin by either ascending the starting corner of Breakfast in Bed or climbing the slab directly below the initial left-facing corner/ramp system (both are easy 5th class) to a ledge. Climb up this corner (careful of loose rock) to an okay stance below a left-facing flake (the climbing up to this point is quite runout, and I believe it deserves an "s" rating even though Rossiter doesn't give it one). One can place medium TCUs, medium nuts, and possibly a #1 Camalot here before laybacking the flake and manteling onto its top (crux of route). After the mantel, a #8 WC nut fits nicely into a shallow groove to the right. Continue straight up towards the roof on easy, hueco'ed 5.5 climbing. Moving left 5 feet below the roof makes for a long reach between big holds, where climbing straight up to the roof and then left is shorter moves on smaller holds. Place gear before this, because the fixed pin can't be clipped until after the 5.8 moves are made. Bust up left around the arete, and finish up easy face climbing or corner to the broad Bastille descent ledge. If doing only P1, descend as for all other Bastille routes.
P2. Per Michael Komarnitsky: continue up and slightly right up a slab before turning an awkward looking, off-width/chimney crack/roof. It's actually hands and a finger lock once you get up there, but there's a tricky move on the clean face that is unprotectable - THIS warrants an s rating, I believe. Anyways, turn the corner and follow the easy climbing another 15 feet to the ridge and belay. I thought this was definitely better than 1 star, 2 stars in my book.
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