Interplanetary Voyage
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | B. Simmons, M. Bennett & B. Robins, 1985 |
Page Views: | 1,042 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | mountainsense on Apr 24, 2009 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
It's really a wonder that this line gets a star in the Ruckman guide--what a flog! Begin in a brushy corner just uphill and to the right of Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. Climb the slabby corner up and into a squeeze, then wriggle your way out and along a flake until it's possible to pull back into the slot above, which is gritty and features loose rock. Oh, and I almost forgot--the moves getting into the initial squeeze can be wet--and loose. But, perhaps, I'm just a bit biased--I did get throttled by the thing, so you may just want to go find out for yourself... Giv'r!
Protection
Bring at least a single set of cams, ranging in size from hands to fists. A helmet, in this case, would almost certainly hose you as your head would become irretrievably keyed-in at the top of the first squeeze. Wear pants and long sleeves for good measure.
Once through the offending upper slot, devise a gear anchor, or figure out someway over and to the climber's left--there's a chain anchor in good repair atop Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. The rappel is maybe 65 feet.
Once through the offending upper slot, devise a gear anchor, or figure out someway over and to the climber's left--there's a chain anchor in good repair atop Slam, Jam, Thank You, Ma'am. The rappel is maybe 65 feet.
Photos
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