After the roof....

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roo… > Guenese (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

After the roof....

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Charles leading Guenese.

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Matthew Lloyd

Apr 27, 2009

“After the roof....”

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After the roof....

4/10/09.<br>
3-4.

Unknown climber approaching the roof on 1.18.13.<br>
<br>
Photo taken through mounted scope on Fowler Trail.

Pulling the roof on first 5.11 lead.

John Baldwin on the pitch, thinking about those marginal stoppers, 1978

This guy moved with such grace I had to take a couple shots of him thru a crux<br>
4/10/09<br>
<br>
1-4

Stretching to clip the second bolt. Lisa had to tape a biner open to make this clip.

Ivan Rezucha follows up P2 of 'Guenese (5.11a)' on Redgarden Wall in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Eldo's sport crag.

Jean making short work of this pitch.

The third crux--the moves left to the intermediate belay bolts. Much harder than it looks at first. Perhaps the real crux of the climb.

Crankin' jugs.

The move past the second bolt is one of the several cruxes.

The headless man on Guenese on a sunny January day.

The first crux.

4/10/09.<br>
4-4.

4/10/09<br>
2-4

Moving left to the midway anchors and beyond to the rest is THE crux for me.

Above the roof. Strenuous 5.9 from here to the anchors.

Tony on the roof crux.

After standing at the lip, it's over. Except for some pretty hard 5.9 moves.

Tony on the seldom-done last pitch to the Upper Ramp. Supposedly 5.9, the move out of the corner--straight left from the anchor bolts above the roof crux--past the fixed pin visible at the bottom of the photo, felt harder to me than the P1 face. In fact, I fell following here and dropped back down to the lip of the roof due to rope stretch.

On a different day. Notice the Lost Arrow Piton just above my hand. I think Roger Briggs placed it there after the big flake broke off. This photo is from 1980, I think.

The Lost Arrow is more visible in this photo.

Charles leading Guenese.

In This Photo

Matthew Lloyd

denver, colorado

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