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GPS: -40.88371, 172.81093
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: James23 on Aug 8, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Liz

Description Suggest change

Limestone sport crag with a good variety of routes, I think about 250. Some great overhangs, but mostly vertical with a few slabs. Most of the belays are somewhat shaded, but you have a wonderful view of the green countryside at the top. There is an additional cliff 15 minutes away with sunny, open routes directly across the road from the sea.

Also, check out Acid Test....a wicked inverted boulder problem over a glacial stream, on the opposite side of the road. First 15 ft is easy, but I was told there were only a handful of people who'd made it over the tip.

I'll add some more specifics once I find my travel journal, but feel free to edit, as my posting will never be even remotely complete.

Getting There Suggest change

North end of south island. Main access trail has numbered trails leading off of it, making finding routes super easy. There was a private climbers camp that was just a couple min walk from the crag.

66 Total Climbs

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Location: Paynes Ford Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Paynes Ford

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 8
Acid Test
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Midwife Crisis
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Good Bye Cream-Poofters
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Doo-Little
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Temples of Stone
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Elvis Lives in Takaka
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Fearless Vampire Killer
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Hi, I'm Doctor Terrific
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Headplant
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
1080 and the Letter G
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Rawhide
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 5
Send a Gorilla
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Acid Test First Watering Hole
 8
V5 6C Boulder
Midwife Crisis Track 1
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Good Bye Cream-Poofters Track 1
 18
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Doo-Little Track 5
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Temples of Stone Track 2
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Elvis Lives in Takaka Track 1
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fearless Vampire Killer Track 1
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Hi, I'm Doctor Terrific Track 3
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Headplant Track 3
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
1080 and the Letter G Track 6
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Rawhide Track 1
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Send a Gorilla Track 4
 5
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
More Classic Climbs in Paynes Ford »

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