Anchors
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JLP wrote:I think the anchors in the OP are overpriced, unservicable, and less redundant than cheaper alternatives.Please elaborate; I recognize that "the best" setup is largely personal, so this isn't an attack, I just want your perspective. They've been servicing me just fine; what is you issue with them? 2 bolt hangers, a rap ring, and a foot of chain for 12.95 doesn't seem all the more espensive than a couple bolt hangers and beefy rap links or piece of chain. How do you figure it is less redundant? Evan |
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Fuck man, why does every post have to turn into a pissing match. I appreciate all the feedback but how about saving the over-technical and personal slamming for somewhere else. |
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^^^I think I made it pretty clear that it wasn't a personal attack. |
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Matt, I've used them for rap anchors in Eldorado Canyon in Colorado, and think they are fine for that use. The steel ring on this anchor is very strong (50 kN), but be aware that some climbers may not be comfortable with its lack of redundancy. I think this lack of comfort is irrational (a 50 kN ring is just not going to break), but that's the way it is. One experienced climber added a bolt and ring to a Fixe Trad Anchor to gain redundancy and peace of mind on a commonly used rap anchor in Eldorado. He was concerned that wear would eventually reduce the strength of the single ring and wanted a redundant setup to compensate for that. However, I don't think Fixe Trad Anchors are the best alternative for anchors at the top of sport routes:
For these reasons, I feel that sport anchors with two bolts in horizontal alignment allow faster and simpler setup for toproping through your own gear, and are preferred over the Fixe Trad Anchor for that use. If you like having bolts in a vertical alignment, then equipping them with two chains and quick links is probably a better solution than the Fixe Trad Anchor for sport routes. Is it easy to clip two quickdraws of the same length into the chains or quick links to create an equalized setup for toproping. |
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Evan1984 wrote:How do you figure it is less redundant? EvanThe lack of redundancy would be based on the fact that the ring is a single point failure. With these anchors I don't think that it's too big of a concern as the rings are very strong. |
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I don't think having 2 quick draws stacked on top of each other.. either parallel or perpendicular to the rock is that great of an anchor. lots of side to side or out and in movement could lead to an open gate scenario. If i couldn't make something work easily with either 2 QD's or 1-2 of the shoulder length slings that i might have on my harness then i'd be threading the anchor and TRing off of it. and not really feeling bad about it. |
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I would have to agree with Ron on the horizontal alignment of bolts for sport anchors. Many beginning sportsters only have quick draws of equal length from an online sport climbing package deal and a limited understanding of equalization. Make it easier for them. I usually use quick links hooked to biners or chain: biners for straight forward set-ups that might see a lot of action, chain for possible rope drag issues over ledges etc, and sometimes both. Those mussy hooks look like fine pieces though... two of those to lower off of probably equals one fixe ring for ridiculousy'sI mean redundancy'ssake. I have used metolius rap hangers for low visual impact anchors on trad lines; they are probably not the best for an often used sport area. Regardless of what you choose give it a good rock colored spray paint. I usually use a grey primer base coat, a rock color matching second round, and then a light speckling spritzer to it a natural look. |
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Here is an anchor I found today halfway up a cliff in the Poudre. |
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is that a pair of scisors? |
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Ron, good point on the hassle of rigging a TR setup on the Fixe trad anchor. I mainly climb sport and I know I never carry a sling on my harness along with with my quick draws. |
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I too prefer the side-by-side bolt configuration for sport, when possible. It's easy to set up TRs and it's easily replaceable. One of the things I don't like about the Fixe Trad Anchor for sport is that what do you do when it's time to replace the ring. It's a lot easier to carry a wrench to open up a quick-link than bringing up a hack saw or bolt cutter to replace a ring. However, I do make regular use of vertically oriented anchors for sport climbs when the rock dictates it. Just the other day I was putting an anchor in on a new climb and the rock was just kind of "funky" with weird bulges and such that made it hard to get a nice side-by-side setup. Hence, I used a vertical orientation. When I do I typically use a Fixe Ring Anchor or a regular hanger with a link and rap ring on the bottom. And, on the top I use a regular hanger with a link and chain to equalize with the bottom. If it's really high traffic I put a link on the bottom of the chain so it's easily replaceable and a little thicker than the chain. The Fixe Ring Anchor can be nice for the bottom hanger because it's still possible to clip into it at multiple points but it's even easier to do so with a regular hanger and a link and ring. |