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on the ridge
A view of the Petzolt with the famous "window pitch" from the Exum.
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Red is the correct approach ledge to the chimney of P1.  Yellow is an alternative approach that adds 1/2 pitch.
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By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 4, 2010

I could not find the start to the red approach. After getting to the ledge below the chimney and looking back, it looked to me like the red approach was not so easy. The yellow is very nice, straight forward, has a caren at the base and goes at about 5.6.

By Jim D
May 10, 2011

I'm sorry you couldn't find the start. It truly is 3rd class. I can see the ledge on your photo. Trace that diagonally down and right several hundred feet and you'll get there. You have to go further to the climber's right than you think to find it. Far easier than tacking on another 5.6 pitch at O' Dark Thirty.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 10, 2011

Either way works. When we did the 3rd class approach, at one point it went under a dripping waterfall from a recent storm. We were worried that ice could have formed under it (September) but it must have been just above freezing.

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Red is the correct approach ledge to the chimney of P1. Yellow is an alternative approach that adds 1/2 pitch.

Submitted By: Robert Henderson on Apr 19, 2009
On this route:
Lower Exum Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b )
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