Top-Rope Anchors

My girlfriend and I started indoor climbing about 4 months ago and would like to get started climbing outdoors. We don't know too many people that climb and are debating if we want to go through a guide to learn how to set up top-rope anchors? I was wondering how everyone else learned this, or a guide that they recommend, and even if anyone would maybe be willing to go out for a weekend to devils lake and show us how its done. Thanks.

most of how i learned how to set anchors was i first learned how to place gear. then i read a couple of books about anchor systems and kinda went from there.

Buy Rock Climbing Anchors by Craig Luebben it's a great source of info, also you should spend some time with an experienced climber or hire a guide. Remember your life hangs from the anchors you build.

hey arik-

i asked the same question 11 years ago. do yourself a favor and hire a guide. the up-front expense will start a foundation that will make you a better climber down the road.

one source for finding field-tested guides is to look at the amga website at amga.com.

regards,
geir

Yeah I would really appreciate it Tony, I'm a student at UWSP and my last day is the 15th so that would work out good. I'd be willing to go any time that works best for you. Thanks again.

If you can hook up with a knowledgeable/experienced climber willing to mentor you, it can be a great experience. I have no idea if Tony is that person or not. My advice is you can give Tony a try, then seek out advice from other sources (the book is also a good idea). Or, you can go the route of hiring a guide. A day (or weekend) with a GOOD guide is well worth the money in the long run. Yea I know, it can be a bit steep up front for a couple college students but hey, as has been pointed out, your life (or at least health) or that of some one else can depend on it. Look at what happened in Vail to an "experienced climber".

Toproping in the midwest?
Three words: Beer can bashies.
The placement of an adequate beer can bashie seems to be a lost art these days.
They work amazingly well on the quartzite of The Lake or Basalt of Taylors Falls.
Hopefully there a few old school clubbers (DLFA) still around who can coach you in the lost arts.
HFOGHB

yours in fuk-ness,

Tom Hanson
Founding foreskin of The DCCC
Megalomaniacal despot of The DLFA

Tom Hanson wrote:Hopefully there a few old school clubbers (DLFA) still around who can coach you in the lost arts.

Tom, I think all of the old school DLFAers are either too old or too drunk (or both) to help out a lad like Arik.

I'd say, get the books: Freedom of the Hills, Climbing Anchors, and More Climbing Anchors. Bring the books to the cliff with you, and spend a few days messing with gear (no climbing). You'll be able to figure out a lot on your own, in a mellow environment, without fear of injury because you're not climbing on it. The Turret formation (above Railroad Amphitheater) at DL is a great place for this. It has a nice flat top with a bunch of cracks and it is out of the way. No one will bother you there.

Then, latch on to an experienced climber and watch how he/she sets things up. Be careful analyzing the experience level, however. Many so called "experienced" climbers set up unbelievably sketchy TR rigs. Just look at the East Bluff on any busy weekend and I guarantee that one set up out of three will be borderline dangerous.

Check out all of the books you can on climbing.

Take your gear and go to the Lake who knows you might just meet the person you are looking for there.

Go some place big and hire a guide nothing against learning at the Lake or doing a lot of climbing there, but a climbing trip to the Rockies is a great way to jump start the fun.

Arik, another great way to learn the ropes is to get involved with an outing club at your university. If I remember corectly, uwsp has a climbing program that takes trips outside. Hiring an instructor is also a great idea. You will immediately gain a base of knowledge that takes some climbers months to gain in just a few days. Check into the PCIA or AMGA. Set the standards high for anyone instrucing you in a sport which has death potential. Even better is to take a climbing course through NOLS. If you really want to hammer it home and become proficient they are the best in the world and you'll learn a bunch of other skills and concepts. Their course are usually a eye opening if not life changing event. (Although I may be a bit biased since they sign my paychecks!)

The only thing I'd throw in there is if you are learning from a fellow climber, unless they are a certified guide, take their words with a grain of salt. Just like somebody said above, some climbers thing they've got their stuff together and in reality they're setting some pretty sketchy anchors. Just don't take somebody's word as gospel is all I'm saying.

I started with a out door club, and books, but learning is at a slower pace, A year later, then when I could afford it I hired a guide, Colorado mnt school, there was no climbing guides in the Midwest back then,

If you can afford it, take a guided weekend top rope course will be your quickest way to learn, if you do not have a experienced mentor, there some climbing clubs, the are some good books, John Long, has 2, Climbing Anchors, Advanced Anchors, and the are some DVD's

FYI when climbing on other peoples rope top setups look at them first, a lot a of climbers, ride on other peopls ropes with out looking at them, there are some unsafe setups, out there, there are a lot of safe climbers, it just takes one unsafe climber, like the ice climber in Vail top roping thru webbing only, NO BINERS, burned thru the webbing and fell 70ft, he had 15yrs of climbing experience.

BE SAFE

Being from Utah, Then moving to WI for awhile, There are a ton of things I would take with a "Grain of Salt" at the lake. My "Favorite" are the 100 ft long pieces of webbing tying several large trees together running up to the edge but not over it with the rope through one biner. That said a 50' piece of static line is invaluable for setting anchors for top ropes. How to rock climb, John Long; Climbing Anchors,John Long; and The whole expert series by the Mountaineers are great resources for learning. The Expert series have great photos in them and are really well written and laid out. I use the Gym to Crag, How to Rock climb, and Climbing Anchors in my college courses. They are great because they go step by step and have exercises in them for you to practice. Hiring a guide is a sure way to get really good skills to start off with. It's hard to break bad habits once formed.

EB wrote:Even better is to take a climbing course through NOLS. If you really want to hammer it home and become proficient they are the best in the world and you'll learn a bunch of other skills and concepts. Their course are usually a eye opening if not life changing event. (Although I may be a bit biased since they sign my paychecks!)

This reminds me of a joke I've heard. :)

If you don't have a school or guide service nearby and are learning from friends make sure you corroborate everything with others before you go out on your own. Ask someone else to go over everything you learned to make sure you haven't missed anything or picked up any bad techniques. Learn to critique your and other's systems for errors and never be offended if someone questions what you are doing. Sites like MP are full of what may seem like rancorous squabbles over safety and techniques but very often it's just the process of fact finding and sorting out bad practices.

Buy the instruction books mentioned above and not only read them but memorize everything in them and occasionally look them over to refresh your memory. Talk to as many people as you can find. Sometimes a group can end up reinforcing each other's bad habits. Take it one step at a time before you do anything more complicated. Don't skimp on gear or cut corners it's your life we're talking about so shell out the bucks or wait till you have it together. Consider taking a road trip to take a class at a qualified school. Looks like you're going about it the right way given that not all places have certified guides.

Happy Safe Climbing!.........................:>(|;)

Tony Pham wrote: It's pro bono, and no cash will be accepted.

I bet he'd accept Brew$ki Buck$.

Alex A wrote:FYI when climbing on other peoples rope top setups look at them first, a lot a of climbers, ride on other peopls ropes with out looking at them, there are some unsafe setups, out there, there are a lot of safe climbers, it just takes one unsafe climber, like the ice climber in Vail top roping thru webbing only, NO BINERS, burned thru the webbing and fell 70ft, he had 15yrs of climbing experience. BE SAFE

WOW 15 years and also an Ice Climber. Scary! Before getting into climbing with basic physics knowledge I could tell him that was a bad idea.

Then again I learned the power of friction when I was about 10 in my back yard. I strung a rope between two trees and tried to zip line with an old belt like in the movies...thank god for soft grass. :)

Page 144 of "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills" Craig Luebben has one of the coolest illustrations I have ever seen.

It shows how to set up a TR with natural anchors. In this one illustration is redundant anchor points, using knots to isolate 1 rope into 2 strands, protecting the rope on an edge, protecting trees. I especially like how they use the clove hitch to center your rope. Absolutely awesome!

Rick Blair wrote:Page 144 of "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills" Craig Luebben has one of the coolest illustrations I have ever seen. It shows how to set up a TR with natural anchors. In this one illustration is redundant anchor points, using knots to isolate 1 rope into 2 strands, protecting the rope on an edge, protecting trees. I especially like how they use the clove hitch to center your rope. Absolutely awesome!

I actually own that book and have been studying that picture over and over. Its funny that you mention it.

There are so many principals of anchor building in that picture, if you use that as your base point, you will understand other anchors better in the future like the equalette.

Jay Knower wrote:Be careful analyzing the experience level, however. Many so called "experienced" climbers set up unbelievably sketchy TR rigs. Just look at the East Bluff on any busy weekend and I guarantee that one set up out of three will be borderline dangerous.

ditto that.

one reason that i suggest going with a certified guide is that you're certain to have a field-tested individual with documented training from a recognized certifying body.

i'm sure there are seasoned climbers out there who would teach solid, up-to-date skills, but it's hard for a novice to know the difference between people teaching good techniques vs bad techniques.