Last Dance with the Fat Man
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Jeremy Mariette and Keith Anderson |
Page Views: | 2,107 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Brandonbus on May 19, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Description
This route starts at a rounded out hueco about 25 ft to the right of Barney Rubble and climbs straight up to a one bolt anchor with a fixed biner. Godzilla (Vias) is the line that splits left after the first couple bolts.
Previous anchors for this and a few routes to the right have been unofficially moved down to slightly better rock. Avoid going to the original chains as their integrity is unknown and likely suspect. It is a good idea to have more than one bolt clipped when lowering or working on toprope.
Very long reaches through very small crimps lead to a shallow mono and a brief rest before deciding how to handle the crux which has been done several ways. Most of the moves favor tall people. Finish on some eroding holds to a larger hueco and a rest stance before the last bolt / anchor.
Previous anchors for this and a few routes to the right have been unofficially moved down to slightly better rock. Avoid going to the original chains as their integrity is unknown and likely suspect. It is a good idea to have more than one bolt clipped when lowering or working on toprope.
Very long reaches through very small crimps lead to a shallow mono and a brief rest before deciding how to handle the crux which has been done several ways. Most of the moves favor tall people. Finish on some eroding holds to a larger hueco and a rest stance before the last bolt / anchor.
- RCM&W # 33, p. 123
Photos
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