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> Andrews Creek & The Gash
Andrews' Tower, North Face
5.3 YDS 3+ French 10 Ewbanks III UIAA 9 ZA VD 3a British M5 Steep Snow PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Andrews Creek & The Gash
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Adaptive Methods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M4 Easy Snow |
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Andrews Glacier Easy Snow |
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Andrews' Tower, North Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a M5 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Box of Candy Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Brain Freeze M5+ Steep Snow |
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Chiropractic Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.) M6-7 Mod. Snow |
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Circling Sharks T M8+ |
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Flour Power Couloir WI2- Steep Snow |
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Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth Steep Snow |
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Ol' Dawg Chimney T M5 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Production, The T M7 PG13 |
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Wham Couloir T M4 Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Dougald MacDonald & Greg Sievers |
| Page Views: | 3,167 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Sievers on Apr 1, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
From the rocky ground that separates the lower snowfield and Andrews Glacier (adjacent to Tarn Lake), turn south and scramble up a few hundred vertical feet.
We dropped packs on the eastern edge of the gully (that comprises most of this route).
P1 - climb mixed snow/rock for 200', M3-4.
P2 - we stepped right and climbed a very steep and sustained corner (M5). After 60' traverse back left, and climb the upper chimney.
P3 - very steep snow and M4 terrain, up under the cornice/pillow. At the headwall, we took a hard left to the arete.
P4 - turn right on the ridge - mostly snow. Connect the dots to the Col.
P5 - traverse due west along a very awkward rock ledge and then up (5.3) to the summit block.
We dropped packs on the eastern edge of the gully (that comprises most of this route).
P1 - climb mixed snow/rock for 200', M3-4.
P2 - we stepped right and climbed a very steep and sustained corner (M5). After 60' traverse back left, and climb the upper chimney.
P3 - very steep snow and M4 terrain, up under the cornice/pillow. At the headwall, we took a hard left to the arete.
P4 - turn right on the ridge - mostly snow. Connect the dots to the Col.
P5 - traverse due west along a very awkward rock ledge and then up (5.3) to the summit block.
Location
This 'tower' lays immediately south of Andrews Glacier just above Tarn Lake.
To descend: downclimb the east snowfields (Alpine snow III) or hike/climb south along the apex of the ridge to the Continental Divide - turn right and retreat by the north snowfield down to the Tarn, or go to Andrews Glacier and then back to the base, and your stash.
I think our descent route on the east-facing snowfields would make a superb spring climb of a very moderate nature, on good styrofoam (if you climb it in the afternoon or a cold cloudy day), and you'll enjoy a really beautiful tower type summit.
To descend: downclimb the east snowfields (Alpine snow III) or hike/climb south along the apex of the ridge to the Continental Divide - turn right and retreat by the north snowfield down to the Tarn, or go to Andrews Glacier and then back to the base, and your stash.
I think our descent route on the east-facing snowfields would make a superb spring climb of a very moderate nature, on good styrofoam (if you climb it in the afternoon or a cold cloudy day), and you'll enjoy a really beautiful tower type summit.
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