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Best Moderate in Colorado

Original Post
John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195

self explanatory, something in the 5.7-5.10 range

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Ruper. Malice in Bucket Land variation. It has all the action of a 5.12, yet is 5.8/9.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Take Rosy Cruxifixion to get to Alice/Malice if you want it a little harder.

John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195

It's pretty awesome when the first two responses you get are talking about climbs in Boulder (or damn close). Maybe I'm sensing a little bias from you though, Hank and Tony. Ruper and Rosy are now on the list but is there anything else that is worth a nice long drive this summer to do?

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Well, I was just comemnting on Hank's answer, so here are some other ideas:

  • Flying Butteress, on Mt Meeker, one of the best 9's in the country.
  • TurnKorner, at Lumpy is one of the best 10's... BUT, it's kinda getting out of the 'moderate' range in my opinion. Still, if you call solid 5.10 moderate...
  • Everyone else seems to really like the Center Route (5.9) in the Catherdral spires, but I don;t think its such a big deal. No better than Yellow Spur(5.9) or Green Spur (5.9) unless you really want to drive.

I am super-biased towards climbs 3+ pitches long, so while the polpular crags in the S. Platte and BoCan may have some great lines, there will be never a mention from me about the shorter crags as desitnation climbs.

Some other routes also came to mind, but they are a little beyond moderate as well. By way of example, 'Desert Solitaire' in Colorado Nt'l Monument, but that is 5.11, so though it sticks out in my mind as worth the drive and more, it's not a moderate, it is hard.
John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195

O.K. Thanks for the recommendations. This will be the first summer I get to spend in Colorado and I should have lots of time (weekends) to drive around looking for rock.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Alice In Bucket Land no matter how you get to it is spectacular, Maybe not in the dead heat of August as it faces dead south.

Cudo's too to Flying Buttress, amazing setting, huge belay ledges, stunning climbing......and were are the crowds ?? Hmm maybe next door on the Diamond.....

Best 5.7 IMHO Re-written if you can avoid the crowds...

Oh there is this thing called The Petite Grepon...

Sharkstooth.....hmmmm then there is Lumpy......

Matt Nelson · · Pueblo West, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 610

Classic Dihedral, best .7+ in Colorado.

Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 10,406

Summer is not a good time for it, but Scenic Cruise in the Black is one of the best in Colorado, IMO.

Ditto on the Flying Buttress on Meeker. Super fun.

I'd also put a plug in for North Ridge of Spearhead. Only 5.6 but I thought it was pretty cool for a 5.6.

Terry Fisher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 265

Hey John,

If you or anybody else would like a partner on any of these and more drop me a line! I do the 9-5 type job so weekdays I would be good to go in the evenings and weekends are open.

terry

Shane Neal · · Colorado Springs, CO. · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 265
johnL wrote:The Casual Route is 5.10 and is easier for the most part. Given it's location and the rock, it's one of the best anywhere.
Great yes- but you must love crowds. Do it during the weekday's if you do.

My fav's- all super fun and adventurous-

Petit Grepon - RMNP
Halett Peak - RMNP
Ellingwoods Arete' - Sangre's
Kit Carson - Sangre's ***Best moderate ever!! Well worth the long approach. Amazing 2000'ft arete, mostly 5.8(bit runout) and easier to the top. Plus sweet bouldering at 12,000ft.!! Do it***
Otto's Route- CO. Natl Monument
Any South Platte Moderate
Any Unaweep Canyon Moderate

Have fun and good luck with your summer adventures!! Climb hard. Climb Safe :)
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Tony Bubb wrote: * Everyone else seems to really like the Center Route (5.9) in the Catherdral spires, but I don;t think its such a big deal.
Absolutely, this area sucks.

Not to mention Fun Climb 101 isn't fun at all; and Classic Dihedral isn't all that classic, Buck Fever is too much of a headache, Topo Oceans isn't even on the water, Central Corner is off to the right, a Bishop can't checkmate jack, & Turkey Rock tastes like chicken.

This whole area is messed up, stay in Boulder, Alice; leave these choss-piles to the red-headed step-children of Colorado.
Kat A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 510

I'll second Flying Buttress on Meeker and various routes on Hallett's Peak. Direct South Face on Notchtop is also good (listed as 5.9, felt not too difficult).

Ryan Worsham · · West Creek, CO · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 18

Road Warrior and Good Evans

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

Lumpy has great moderates.
Pear Buttress
J-Crack
Loose Ends
All are 5 stars.

Hallet's is a pile, Go to Glacier Gorge, Petit or Flying Buttress.

david goldstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,541
RyRy wrote:Road Warrior and Good Evans
Few would consider RW a moderate.
J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,425
david goldstein wrote: Few would consider RW a moderate.
I second that.

josh
Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,355
Mark Nelson wrote: Absolutely, this area sucks. Not to mention Fun Climb 101 isn't fun at all; and Classic Dihedral isn't all that classic, Buck Fever is too much of a headache, Topo Oceans isn't even on the water, Central Corner is off to the right, a Bishop can't checkmate jack, & Turkey Rock tastes like chicken. This whole area is messed up, stay in Boulder, Alice; leave these choss-piles to the red-headed step-children of Colorado.
You forgot that the approaches are up hill both ways, and there isn't a climb that's less than 2 hours from the road.
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
RyRy wrote:Road Warrior and Good Evans
That's Brutal... 10d Offwidth at 12,000 feet as a 'moderate?' Owwww!
Jeff G. wrote:Lumpy has great moderates. Pear Buttress J-Crack Loose Ends All are 5 stars. Hallet's is a pile, Go to Glacier Gorge, Petit or Flying Buttress.
Pear Buttress is such a fun line. A great 8 for sure!
But I disagree on Hallets. The Direct Middle Buttress route is great 9+, if you are comforatble putting space (spice) between peices on easy (5.7) terrain.
Adam B · · CO · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 105

#1 go to for me is Kors Flake at the Sundance Buttress on Lumpy. Defintely do it as a precursor to Turnkorner, which is my personal favorite at lumpy. Check out any of the many classics on Sundance Buttress really.

Yellow spur was one of my first multi pitches, still a favorite. Did Rosy's recently and thought it to be totally safe for the leader, but on the stiff side of moderate.

I wouldnt call the Casual Route moderate given the approach, setting, and variety of climbing styles found on the route, but it should be on any aspiring trad leaders list. Definitely check out other aforementioned RMNP goodies.

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

The Martyr, 5.9 4 pitches, outside of Co Springs, is a sleeper classic. Pearly Gates right next door is also great, though the Martyr is THE line in the southern front range, imho.

Edit: you'll never see anyone there, either. Not true for most places in CO.

Lost in Space on the Sheep's Nose is also great, and not very crowded.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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