Mountain Project Logo

Max Recruitment without a Campus Board

Original Post
Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

I'm looking for a way to do MaxR training but don't have access to a campus board. I can't build one because I've got nowhere to put it (yes, I've thought of whatever you're about to suggest - it won't work). My local gym doesn't have one either.

So, are there other alternatives for MaxR workouts? Any way to do it on a hang board? Am I up the creek?

Thanks!

Jon B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 105

Come on, all you need is 4' of wall space. Maybe just 3'.

Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 310
Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Yeah. Thanks for the link, but I'm looking for advice specifically on max recruitment training. I'm all set on the hypertrophy theory.

And yeah, I know, it only takes "4 feet" of wall space, but I don't have 4 acceptable feet of wall space. Unless you're advocating divorce as a training technique.

Eric8 · · Maynard, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 310

At the bottom of the link Taylor Roy describes a workout designed to improve his max power (aka max recruitment) things like weighted single rep pull ups on a hangboard

Tico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

During my transition week from hangboard to campus board, I did a lot of single arm hangs off larger (two digit) holds, and a few sets on smaller (one digit) crimps and two- and three-finger pockets . This seems to help wake up recruitment for campusing on smaller holds.
It's also a great way to rupture your pulley tendons.

I should've prefaced the post with "back when I used to climb hard and not drink every day,"

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255
SketchE wrote:At the bottom of the link Taylor Roy describes a workout designed to improve his max power (aka max recruitment) things like weighted single rep pull ups on a hangboard
Thanks for pointing that out; missed it on my quick read-through.
Crimp Nasty · · Chosstown, USA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 977

Hard Bouldering is one of the best forms of maximum recruitment. Working the moves on a problem that is at or slightly beyond your limit is your best bet. However, be sure to take enough rest between attempts and do not thrash about.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Add five pounds( however you like) and climb boulder problems (5-10 moves)near your limit. One arm traversing is another one that works, but is pretty stressfull on the elbows.

Also any hypertrophy workout can be modified to target recruitment by decreasing the moves and increasing the weight. I do not find this as effective as bouldering personally.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90

J-
I'm assuming that your mostly interested in training your hands/fingers. The campus board is certainly the most specific since it incorporates movement between holds and also requires the entire upper body to become involved. The other huge advantage that using a campus board has is the fact that when you move from rung to rung you must generate as much of your maximum strength as possible as quickly as possible so as to "stick" the next rung. (consequently this is why the CB is such an easy way to really blow out soft tissue structures in your hands and arms.) This has come to be called "Contact Strength" in climbing circles, so if you feel that your contact strength is your weak link than you'd be better off sticking to doing individual bouldering moves at your limit.
Though in an overall periodized training schedule you'd make the best gains doing some static recruitment training first (hang board...etc.) and then moving to doing apprx 4-6 weeks on a campus board or max bouldering. This way you develope more strength and then learn to use it in more dynamic situations.

Just keep in mind that you may have to decrease the overall amount of climbing you perform while doing this routine. Maximum recruitment training usually won't leave you feeing sore and beat up the way a long session pulling platic might... but you'll generally take longer to recover from any one session. Realistically most people can't tolerate more than 1 or 2 honest to god maximum recruitment training sessions per week.

From a simplified neuromuscular training perspective the only thing that really matters when you're talking about trying to increase the maximum amount of force that your finger flexors can generate in an isometric contraction is time. If you're using a load that you can only statically hang onto for less than apprx 6sec you'll be training your neuromuscular systems ability to generate maximal force.

So realistically you can train this anyway you like, you can use a hang board, you can girth hitch a sling to a stack of weight and try to pick it up using a single finger or whatever other devious trials you can come up w/.
cheers, BA

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Thanks for the replies, all! Very helpful.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Max Recruitment without a Campus Board"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started