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Routes in East Wall
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A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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East Corner T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Flying Circus/ Fireworks combo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Labor of Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Gene Drake, Mark Haymond, Larry Morris |
| Page Views: | 13,165 total · 60/month |
| Shared By: | Scott "Scoboni" on Mar 12, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. The entire first pitch is easily and well protected. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left down and across exposed low angle slabs at this point if you choose to do so.
The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Climb up the corner/arête on the far right side of the ledge past a protection bolt. Stay slightly to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. Its not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.
The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Climb up the corner/arête on the far right side of the ledge past a protection bolt. Stay slightly to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. Its not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.
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