Retrobolting

This route has a bolt before its short lateral crux with no bolt immediately following as you move through a 5.8 or so move to the stance at the first of the upper pins. Spicy, but are you really going to deck if you come unglued while clipping? Shake out after the crux, then head up the spicy bit and clip, after that it's very unlikely you'd fall off.

Yea, That's how you SHOULD do it. But for a simple fix to eliminate the possibility of someone getting really screwed up on that ledge. one bolt is totally worth it. You don't need the first bolt on Social outcast either but it's there and most clip it. I skip bolts all over Rumney that are not necessary for me but on routes at my limit i'm clipping it all.

Jake D. wrote:Yea, That's how you SHOULD do it. But for a simple fix to eliminate the possibility of someone getting really screwed up on that ledge. one bolt is totally worth it. You don't need the first bolt on Social outcast either but it's there and most clip it. I skip bolts all over Rumney that are not necessary for me but on routes at my limit i'm clipping it all.

matthewWallace wrote: very well said jake, some could argue clip-a-dee-do-da doent need bolts because parts are fourth class but lets be honest that route wouldnt be as awesome without the bolts

E thatcher wrote: Cause then you wouldn't have as many to skip when scrambling up it in tevas for a lunch break?!?