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Bring out the Gimp! (Boulder area partner?)

Original Post
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Edit: Now particular to this weekend... either day, 10am- 5PM Sat or 10 am -3PM sunday.

I'm recovering from knee surgery (5 months ago) and have just gotten the clearance to go get out and toprope a bit on vertical and steep climbs of a mellow grade. My regular partners are climbing a good deal harder than me and I don't want to burden them with climbing with me since I'm of limited capacity presently.

I've climbed Vertigo (5.11-) with a splinted broken ankle, but my knee worked than and doesn't now, so I am not sure what to expect other than to say I know I am capable of dealing with the adversity. I can TR or follow routes, I imagine I about 5.9 or 5.10, but I am not sure. Anyway, I have a goodly amount of experience and can belay, or even do a little trad coaching in return for people dragging my genuinely lame ass to a crag around Boulder for a few hours after work or on upcomming weekends. I don't have the stability to carry a heavy rack on a trail yet though.

I can't risk impact, can't get up difficult trails, and can't risk jittering my right leg down a slabby, ledgy, climb if I blow it. I have partial and weak use of my right leg while climbing and also can not heft a heavy pack or appraoch quickly. The severity of the problem goes on a day-by-day basis and can be good or bad.

PM me if you want to help get "gimpy" out climbing again in the Boulder area.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

From one gimp to another... see ya in May!

Peter Spindloe · · BC · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,390

I wish both of you a fast recovery! It's hard to imagine Tony taking such a long time away from climbing. And Andy, how does August look? I was very busy with school for January and February, but I managed to get out just enough, and March has been good to me. I'm still very keen to finish Freeway this year.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

I should be good for August. Sorry about the thread drift Tony.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

OK, I've been to the gym, and climbed outside.
Not sure how hard I can climb, but I know now that 5.9 trad is not an issue, I've done that. How much harder will depend on good day/bad day factors, which I can't predict.
I'm lookign for a partner Saturday and Sunday, from 10am onwards. Again, I can not presently lead (no impact risk allowed) and can not carry a heavy pack. But I can belay, can follow, and am pretty competent for whatever... just recovering from Knee Surgery.

Wade Frank · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

I would love to get out Sunday if you are still available? I will PM you my contact info.

budman · · Moab,UT · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 11

Hope somebody takes the gimp climbing! Thanks for you input for the Creek and The Friends of the Creek. Bud

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Don't forget the red ball.

Dave Miller · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Sounds like a good time! I will PM you!

Avery N · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 650

Glad to see you're getting back to it at some level... keep up the good work on the recovery!

phil broscovak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 1,631

So Tony, What did you have done and how long ago?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

You mean the surgery or the climbing? The surgery was a knee reconstruction in October 2008 with some compications...
As for the first week back to climbing: Well, last Monday I had my first attempt at anything- went to The Spot gym (had a free pass) with my old partner Jason Haas and his girlfriend Erin. Jason worked on harder problems while I got on the TR wall in back. Erin Belayed me on all the routes between her Boudler problems, which was nice of her. It went pretty well and was a good controlled environment.
Weds I headed out to BoCan with Phil L. and he lead West Face on Bell Buttress, which I managed to follow, no hangs no falls, despite it being some layback and high-right feet movese. The leg is too weak to high-step right or to load in that position, so it got awkward in spots. Phil then lead West Crack, but it was getting dark, so he cleaned on his way down and I only did the one pitch.
Saturday I had a few hours and went with Wade to Eldo and followed the West Overhang on the Wind Tower, then I lead the Wind Ridge as a single pitch to the walk off ledge. We talked about doing Calypso, but there were TR's on during the time I was there.
Sunday I went back up to the cliff with Wade again and having arrived before the sun hit it at 9am, We were first there. Wade lead Calypso to the Walk-off ledge and I followed, then we motored back up P1 and I lead Reggae. I had planned lunch with my wife, so that was it for the day again. I don't want to over-do it on any particular day yet anyway.

So that's the summary. Just enjoying some easy classics and taking it easy and having fun in the sun. No worries, no stress. Phil and Wade were good partners who took it easy, had some fun, and who carried the pack.

Lee Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 1,545

I never thought I would see the day when I could claim to be climbing as hard as you Tony. Of course I know it won't be long until you are back to your old form. Good on yer for getting out.

Wade Frank · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

Tony, thank you for climbing with me this weekend and thank you for all the stuff you taught me about placing gear.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,990

Kudos on getting out Tony.

It sure is sweet to "return to activity" after a long injury hiatus. It really makes you appreciate being healthy!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

The gimp shall rise again on Sunday.
Any takers? Local climbing, all day.

Kiel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 25

I might be down Tony. I am pretty much a noob but I met Wade at the Denver Happy Hour. He had nothing but good words for climbing with you. Unfortunately, I cant commit right now. So feel free to make other plans and I will let you know as soon as I can.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

Looks like I am all set. Thanks everyone.

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,360
Tony Bubb wrote:Looks like I am all set. Thanks everyone.
Good luck, Tony. Glad you are back on the rocks again. Let's hope enough snow melts so it's climbable on Sunday...
Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Castlewood Canyon 9:30am this coming Sundat the 29th at the upper south rim parking lot? We can go to The Wendell Spire Area, which is home to two-dozen sport routes.
Take Hwy 83 (Parker Rd) south from Franktown for a few miles to the south entrance. Once in the park, continue past the visitor center to the very last, western-most, parking lot.
We’ll take The Inner Canyon Trail out of the north-west end of the last big lot, down into The Inner Canyon, where The Wendell Spire Area will be found on the north side of the canyon, about one hundred yards to the west of where The Inner Canyon Trail first crosses the creek.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665

FYI- 5 of us met Tom and his crew down in Castlewood and had a good time. I managed to figure out I can TR up through the 5.10's without falls, and harder with the occasional hang and fall, but still can't lead.
I was surprised at how much Castlewood actually ahd to offer. It's not a 'destination' area if you already live in Boulder COunty near Eldo, The Flatirons and Bocan, but it's certainly worth it to get away from the crowds and to see some place new.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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