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 ADVANCED
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The route follows the obvious flake system, finishing to the right when the flake dies out.
Arin pulling the final steep moves on pitch 4 of Moby Dick.
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Chicken-head belay!
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By Eric Sophiea
Apr 18, 2014

Um... I don't want to be critical, but this is not an example of a good belay anchor. Several problems here. Just pointing this out in case any inexperienced climbers see it and think it's okay to put a clove-hitch into two non-locking 'biners, belay from only two heads, etc.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 21, 2014

I think I would rather climb with the anchor-builder than the commenter here.

By Jimbo
Apr 23, 2014

I've done this very thing for 30 years. Totally fine. Once the clove is snug it's not moving on the biners, and two big chicken heads is more than adequate for a belay.

By jbak
Apr 24, 2014

Many are the times I would have been over-joyed to have such an anchor.

I have seen bigger, stronger-looking heads break. But still.

By schmeisser
Jun 12, 2014

opposing cararbiners=a locker in my book.

Photo 2 of 37
Avg Score   4.3 from 3 votes
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Chicken-head belay!

Submitted By: Stu Ritchie on Mar 16, 2009
On this route:
Moby Dick (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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