Best SEastern Route(s)...

OK, it's gonna rain this weekend...So that I may stew in prime fashion this weekend over Glenlivet and ceramic tile, let's hear what you've got...what are the best Southeastern climbs you have done and why?

And for non-Southerners, the SouthEast does not include the Virginias...Arkansas gets an honorable mention.

For me...

First, the sandstone.
Margin of PRofit, Stepping Stone
White Supremacy, Bird's Nest, Knifecracks

Granite...
The Nose, Groover, Fathom Direct, Paralleling.

Alright, y'all...

gonna go with ...................
dreamscape. ben, i know u dont like sport routes but u gotta admit "super cool". yeah, i know its diffficulty is a lil overrated but its still "super cool".

HIJACK!

SE arete of Baboquivari AZ, you will be walking a long long time that day but its worth it.

Okay, here's my top five (no particular order):

• Zoo View (5.7+), Moore's Wall -- pulling a juggy roof with maybe 200' of air below you -- it doesn't get much better than this.
• Comfortably Numb (5.9+), Sand Rock -- ranks right up there with Flying Frog as one of the finest single pitches in the south.
• Wind Walker (5.9), Sunset -- great exposed climbing with a lot of variety.
• Groover (5.8), Laurel Knob -- long and adventurous with some exciting runout.
• The Daddy (5.6), Linville Gorge -- maybe the most fun easy lead anywhere.

JL

My opinions are skewed toward NC climbing - haven't done much elsewhere in the south. Still, these routes would be classics anywhere...

Hands-down the best I've done in the SE:
Straight and Narrow (5.10a), Shortoff, NC - do it in two long pitches, and make sure you lead the second. 60 full m of bliss. I have always topped this out thinking how good life is.

Close runners-up:
Dopey Duck (5.9), Shortoff, NC - I didn't want to list two Shortoff routes, but Dopey is worth it. Just stellar - if you can hold on...

Fat Lady w/ the Encore finish (5.11b), Lower Hawksbill, NC - Great rock, unbelievable moves, good gear, and a crazy finish. One hell of a pitch.

Cornflake Crack (5.11a), N Face of Looking Glass, NC - ok, everyone lists this one, but have you done it?!?! Amazing route!

Linn Cove Lullaby (5.10a), Shiprock, NC - great climbing the whole way, with a mellow - albeit reachy - crux.

Rock Wars 5.10a at RRG

Autumn 5.9- at RRG

Rocket Man 5.8 at RRG

Gittin lucky in Kentucky 5.10b at RRG

Road Side Attraction 5.7 at RRG

Pretty much RRG melts your face with awesome classic climbing...

Zoo View at Moore's Wall.
Reckless Abandon at Moore's Wall
Fatlady/Encore, Hawksbill.
No Free Lunch, Hawksbill.
Airlie Gardens, Shiprock.
The Odyssey, Looking Glass.
Hyperbola, Looking Glass.
Shadowdance, Moore's.
Line of Fire, Hawksbill (sport route!).
King of Kings, Hawksbill (almost a sport route).

There are really way too many to list. Any 'route' (problem) at Grandmother or Asheboro is also on my list. Man I really miss NC climbing!

sam.f wrote:... Man I really miss NC climbing!

Of course you do!

Threads like this accomplish three things:
(1) Allows locals to pat themselves on the back - look how cool we are, we've got great climbing.
(2) Makes people who have moved away shake their heads and feel sad now that the great climbing is no longer accessible.
(3) Makes people who have never been scratch their heads and wonder what all the back-patting and head-shaking is about.

I think you and I fit into category (2).

As is not even remotedly veiled, I am firmly entrenched in category (1)...and proud of it.

I relish the curiosity of folks in category (3) as most seemed confused...what with the South's reputation in other areas and all...

...and I feel sorry for those in category (2)...I will never move. I may be closed minded because of it, but my home will always be down yonder.

That said, Coz, I'd like to sample some of the NorthEastern stone sometime...Mass, NY, and NH especially...

I do feel a bit of nostalgia when I read these threads...The warm winter days spent over looking the Tennessee River at T Wall, the pre dark blitz's at Sunset to avoid getting a ticket...and most of all the zero approach at Sand Rock...man I miss walking up to climb - Even the crags next to the road are a hike up out here...

So here are a few I miss...
Gemini Crack & The Nose - Looking Glass
Finger Lockin' Good, PreReq and In Pursuit of Excellence
& Golden Locks - T Wall
White Gold - Sand Rock
Alpha Omega & S'More - Sunset

I always bring climbing gear when I come home - I think there is a good reason for that - the south deserves the rep...and I think I fall into category #2

I think it's pretty weak that the SE doesn't include West Virginia! What about the New?? And... Kentucky?

My favorites/most memorable routes:

1. Just Another Pretty Face, Shortoff
2. The Broach, Shiprock
3. Every single pitch I've climbed at the Tennessee Wall, no joke.
4. BOG Man (both pitches), Shiprock
5. Mellifluous, New River Gorge (sorry, I had to).

Every time I see these SE threads I get a little nostalgic.

And Coz, I could easily interchange the routes on your list for the ones on mine! Except Cornflake Crack, which I never got the chance to do.

Ben Lyon wrote: ...and I feel sorry for those in category (2)...I will never move. I may be closed minded because of it, but my home will always be down yonder.

As a current category 2 member, your sympathy is appreciated, but unnecessary. My home is still down yonder, I'm just checking out an incredible different part of the country. It's temporary. But I've been (temporarily) enjoying the hell out of Joshua Tree, Tahquitz, Stoney Point, Yosemite and Tuolumne, Red Rocks, and plenty of other world-class destinations.
Do I miss home? Absolutely.
Am I doing some incredible climbing away from home? Absolutely.
Will I be moving back sometime? Absolutely!

Good thread, it's always fun to hear what others' favorite routes are, in my old and future backyard.

WV should never be included in the southeast! They seceeded from Virginia during the war of northern agression! In addition, to all of you southern "purists" let us not forget that the honorable Jefferson Davis resided in Richmond, VA at the White House of the Confederacy. VA not part of the south? nonsense. Maybe these days northern VA has sold out, but so have many "southern" cities south of VA.

The Fat Lady with the Encore finish at Hawksbill
Shredded Wheat at Rumbling Bald
Pinball Wizard at Shortoff (I can't believe its not on MP.com)
Bog Man and The Broach and Ship Rock

I really need to come back for a visit.

Chris Sheridan wrote:Pinball Wizard at Shortoff (I can't believe its not on MP.com)

It would be if you added it . . .

JL

From someone that does not yet climb trad. I like these climbs in no particular order, but I like them.
Mickeys Mantel[Currahee mountain]
misty [Sand Rock]
Return of the Jodi [Mount Yonah]
Ankles Away [Foster Falls]

Bouldering
Jaws [Sand Rock]
The Ocean [Horse Pens 40]
Zen Slab [Boat Rock]

Word Chris S.

Maybe the Prodigal Sons should return and show what we have learned climbing big rocks out here?

Cat. 2 respondee:

Coz is right on about the Cornflake-that one would be a classic granite cragging line anywhere.

Ditto on the Duck. If you are a 5.9 leader and live in the SE and have not yet climbed this one, your weekend plans have now been made. You could get hit by a bus tomorrow...

Hyperbola.

Jaws and Fly with the Falcon might be tied for best teeny little route. Except I've never roped up for Jaws, and wouldn't dream of soloing the Falcon.

Tits and Beer.

Open Casket. It's just that cool.

Bumblebee.

N. Ridge of Table Rock.

Reflections.

When you think about the actual climbing on Whitesides and most of the Cashiers Valley stuff, not that many great pitches come to mind- it's more about the location and the ambience and all that air. But I've only climbed the gumby routes on those, maybe the Vol Wall is ultra-classic, for all I know. The steep pitch out the bulge on New Diversions comes to mind, though. Somebody pleeez replace those bolts!!!

Shredded Wheat is kinda short, maybe an honorable mention there.

NIck Danger is pretty cool, doesn't seem to get done much. And I guess the Odyssey, are you still clipping the crusty tat tied around the bash hexes on that one. My palms are still sweating from that shit, and it's been 10 years. Blocked it out, I guess.

Ahem. There is no good climbing in the South. These are not the droids you are looking for. Move along, nothing to see here, folks.

Oh yeah Pinball Wizard! And let's not forget the Maginot Line, and 'Help Mr. Wizard', anyone ever do that thing?

Coz, come visit. I'm living pretty close to some sheer cliffs that are perfect for scaling.

Rob Dillon wrote:NIck Danger is pretty cool, doesn't seem to get done much. And I guess the Odyssey, are you still clipping the crusty tat tied around the bash hexes on that one...

Rob-

Tell me about Nick Danger...where is it at LG? How hard? Memorable moments? I'm planning a trip to LG next month.