Multi pitch in southern az

Is there a list of only multi pitch routes around? Either specifically in southern AZ or the whole state? Or maybe even a list of only multi pitch fully bolted sport routes? I know there's a couple of those around somewhere.

i'm no expert on az climbs, but i do live in tucson in the winter and climb some with two guys who are experts...eric fazio-rhicard and jim scott.I did warpaint(5.10) last spring and jim took me up Peacemaker on Sheepshead(5.10-)(6 or 7 pitchs of bolted 10a) and both were really good climbing in the stronghold. also cherry jam(5.8) on table mtn in the santa catalina mtns is good but the approach is quite long but not hard...just long. If your up to a hard approach and long climb then then northface of Leviathone dome (10c) and 10 pitches is worth the effort( i tried but have'nt made yet). Other than that try the SE arete on Baboquivari(5.6) really more mtn-eering but cool, and/or Elephants Trunk(5.7) on the elephant dome in coyote mtns. AlSO the sport climbing in the tucson area is really exceptional..ie mt lemmon...see or BETTER YET buy Erics book Sqeezing the lemmon...Steve arete(11a) az flyways(11c) and on and on... hope this helps. doug

Thanks Doug, that was helpful. I have squeezing the lemmon and I've done a fair amount of sport climbing on Lemmon, it's just hard to find specifically multi-pitch stuff.

Just FYI - NFace of Leviathan is not a sport climb but it's pretty sporty.

The backcountry book is the most complete reference for multipitch routes in southern AZ. I'm not sure how familiar you are with the area, but Cochise Stronghold will have the highest concentration of quality routes.

The only fully bolted multipitch routes I can think of are Endgame, the variation to Endgame, Peacemaker, and Warpaint (a bit of gear for the 2nd pitch). Most southern AZ routes tend to be a mix of gear and bolts.

I'd add Stampede on Sheepshead to a fully bolted multi pitch route list in Cochise. It's not a "sport" route in the current sense due to some of the runouts on easy terrain. The crux is well bolted.

manuel rangel wrote:I'd add Stampede on Sheepshead to a fully bolted multi pitch route list in Cochise. It's not a "sport" route in the current sense due to some of the runouts on easy terrain. The crux is well bolted.

meh, i guess that 4th pitch had about 7 bolts in 140 feet but it's nothing to worry about. there's a bolt wherever you need one--no, check that, there are TWO bolts wherever you need one on that climb.

and i'd definitely agree, add stampede to that list. that climb is friggin sweet!

I ask for sport routes only because I'm just getting into trad. So if something needs a light/standard rack and has relatively easy/often gear placement that would be great too.

David K wrote:I ask for sport routes only because I'm just getting into trad. So if something needs a light/standard rack and has relatively easy/often gear placement that would be great too.

"the climb too tough to die" on the sheepshead in cochise might be what you're looking for, just be sure you know how to tie off a chickenhead.

David;

If you're just getting into gear, S Az stuff can be a bit tricky. A lot of stuff is not always straight forward.

I'd search the local route listings.

A lot of the multi pitch up on Rap is decent trad stuff with straight forward gear but the locals will have to verify but I think it's under a raptor closure.

Mendoza Canyon, southwest of Tucson, has several back country multi-pitch climbs. I'd recommend Wily Javalina (800' 5.9+), Table for Two (800' 5.10a); Elephant's Trunk (1000' 5.7, but mostly easier.) Also, anything on Sheepshead, Whale Dome, What's My Line, Warpaint, all in the Stronghold. Reef of Rocks area on Mt Lemmon has some nice multi-pitch stuff, too. Also, check out the south face of Baboquivari for some multi-pitch climbs, too. None of these are sport climbs, but years ago we did manage to make Wily Javalina a sport climb by only clipping the bolts and not slinging chickenheads. You'll need two ropes on most of these (except Sheepshead) to get down.

Just a note about current closures:

Summit Crags, Mount Lemmon (definitely includes Rap Rock, not totally sure about the Ravens)

Rockfellow Group, Cochise Stronghold (includes Endgame mentioned earlier)

These are closed for peregrines, March 1st-June 30th.

Mendoza Canyon, aka Coyote Mountains are closed from (I think) March 1st-August 1st; the land is privately owned and access is only granted during hunting seasons.

Sheepshead is open and awesome, as are the other domes on the west side, and the lower domes on the east side are open.

emilygindlesparger wrote:Just a note about current closures: Summit Crags, Mount Lemmon (definitely includes Rap Rock, not totally sure about the Ravens) Rockfellow Group, Cochise Stronghold (includes Endgame mentioned earlier) These are closed for peregrines, March 1st-June 30th. Mendoza Canyon, aka Coyote Mountains are closed from (I think) March 1st-August 1st; the land is privately owned and access is only granted during hunting seasons. Sheepshead is open and awesome, as are the other domes on the west side, and the lower domes on the east side are open.

I'm 99% sure that the Ravens are closed when the nearby crags are. I believe the FS has a mile-radius closure around supposed nesting sites, which shuts down a huge area to climbing.

We are visiting from CO and would like to do Babo with folks who know their way in there.

We've both done Petit Grepon in RMNP and other routes like that.

Lin Murphy

This page is quite helpful: climbaz.com/features/closur…

This one will give you a good idea about the current (frustrating) situation: climbaz.com/Falcon/peregrin…