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Routes in Lots of Balls Slab
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Amazing Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Autumn Sauna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beat Street Trauma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Left of Fauna T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Patient Pace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tony Calderone 2007 |
| Page Views: | 815 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Access Issue: The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service.
Details
That does not mean access to Lots of Balls Slab or Rodeo Buttress are closed. It just means we have to hike around the clear area surrounding the Grist Mill.
Description
P1- From the vegetated cleft find a flat big rock behind some bushes. There is a bolt above this to the west. Slab you way up 5.5 slab to a sub belay, ramble past this up highly fun and featured slab passing 3 more bolts to a 2 ring anchor 5.5 180'
P2- Climb up and right using chickenheads for progress (crux) aim for the bolt above the overlap. Cruise up easy but dirty terrain to a 2 bolt anchor 5.6 55'
P2 variant- Climb out right from belay to reach a bolt, pad your way up to one more bolt aiming for the roof. Plug in some smaller cams and crank over the roof using big chickenheads, once above clip one more bolt and ramble to the anchor. 5.7 55'
P2- Climb up and right using chickenheads for progress (crux) aim for the bolt above the overlap. Cruise up easy but dirty terrain to a 2 bolt anchor 5.6 55'
P2 variant- Climb out right from belay to reach a bolt, pad your way up to one more bolt aiming for the roof. Plug in some smaller cams and crank over the roof using big chickenheads, once above clip one more bolt and ramble to the anchor. 5.7 55'
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