Best Moderates in NE

I'm sitting at my computer damming the weather guy and the stupid groundhog. My thoughts are full of plugging gear and how psyched I am to get out and push my limits, however low they might be...
My goal for this year is to be proficient at 5.8 trad climbing and possibly shake my way up a 5.9 and even a 5.10 on gear- free, hold the french :)
I was wondering what some of the best 5.8 - 5.10 lines are in the area. I plan on getting to the Daks and Conway this spring and of course the Gunks; my home crags in CT are of keen interest. What are some great lines that protect well and do not require a GPS for route finding?

I hate the groundhog too Jim.

The very classic in NH, in my opinion:

5.8: Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff

5.9: Recompense, Cathedral Ledge
Vertigo, Cannon Cliff

5.10: Diedre, Cathedral Ledge
Lost Souls, Whitehorse Ledge
Duet Direct, Cannon Cliff

These are all truly multi-pitch, and all are in amazing positions on the cliff, i.e, exposed. All the routes are well protected, with the exception of Vertigo's offwidth

Hi Jim,

I'm glad you are excited for some NH adventures. Upon reading Jay's post, I'd like to agree that the routes he recommended are some of the best New Hampshire has to offer. Having climbed a lot with Jay though, I know that his idea of an amazing route is sometimes a daunting route for me. Since it sounds like you are working into these grades, I think you might be interested in some less committing options. Cathedral has some great single pitch at the Right End and the Barber Wall, such as Chicken Delight (5.8) and They Died Laughing (5.9). There are other great 5.9's and 5.10's there too. I like starting with these routes because I can bring as much gear as I want and practice placing it in a comfortable environment (meaning right off the ground and no other parties on the route).

Inferno with the Hotter Than Hell start, P1-3 of Children's Crusade, as well as Jay's on Whitehorse. Bomberdment, Saigon's on Catherdal and I'll throw in Some of the routes on Mt Willard.

john

Hey Jim, here are some of my favorites at the Gunks that you should
try. Also looking forward to those longer spring days.

Son of Easy O (5.8) - Avoid the belay and do as one pitch.
Ape Call (5.8) - I love pulling the roof on this route, although very thin gear (R) at the start.
Annie Oh (5.8) - Second pitch is the stuff.
Arrow (5.8) - A classic on beautiful white rock (2nd pitch).
Raunchy (5.8) - Fun thin crack.
Absurdland (5.8+) - Sew it up with nuts. Bad landing if you blow the start.
Eastertime Too (5.8+) - Short and pumpy with good gear.
Yellow Belly (5.8+) - This route has a little bit of everything on it and you need to use all your skills.
Ants Line (5.9) - Stellar route with great gear!
Roseland (5.9) - The traverse under the roof will get the juices flowing.
MF (5.9) - Do it, and it won't disappoint!

if your looking for 8 cracks in the adk's then the creature wall has an assortment of 7-9's.

Hey Jim,
I live in East Hartford, and am solid on 5.8-5.9 and want to get on some 5.10s. I'd totally be interested in hooking up and going to Ragged, Cat Hole, whatever,
As for recommended climbs. I would highly recommend Pegasus at Cat Hole. It's a 5.8+ corner that takes gear the entire way and is great climbing. There's a roof at the top that looks intimidating but isn't hard at all, and is wicked fun.
At Cathedral Ledge, Bombardment is a 5.8 finger crack up a slab that is also incredibly fun and takes gear the entire way.

gunks:
moderates to add
bonnies roof (do both pitches.. p2 either airy traverse (5.7) or direct roof finish (5.9)
CCK 5.7.. or CCK direct 5.9.. both are AMAZING climbs.. the 5.7 normal way is probably the best 5.7 in the.. world? 3rd pitch is absolutely
amazing.. the direct bypasses the airy traverse, but is fun due to the number of ceilings you pull over on the 2nd pitch.

Directissima .. This is THE best way to star high E.. 5.9 first pitch with juggy traverse, but then you climb 5.6 up the arette to the GT ledge.. then finish on last pitch of High E.
Modern Times... though many call it a sandbag at 5.8+ its just pumpy. crazy roof climbing, but ultra classic.. party due to its "sandbagged" nature :D

5.10s
Nosedive 10b- splendid line
Feast of Fools 10b
Directissima variation 10b/c - climb the crack with thin gear.. can link ground to GT ledge in 1 pitch

And i second MF... really really fun route.. that will probably get you saying halfway through the crux, MFer!

all the listed climbs protect well for the gunks.. though getting into the 10s require smaller gear.. i stopped carrying a #3 cam unless the Grey Dick says to bring one.

good luck and hope the gunks season starts sooner than later!

Im new to the area and spent my first summer climbing mostly in the Dacks. Which I would recommend...

Gamesmanship at Poke-O think sustained 5.8 followed by some really nice easier climbing.

Hesitation at Upper Washbowl also 5.8 although I thought it was more like a 5.7. Fun and exciting.

I also like Quadraphenia at Hurricane Crag which is a 5.7 but a Stellar climb none the less.

My climbing in the Dacks has been limited and I have my eye on (Touch of Class) at Wilmington Notch which is sustained 5.9 and supposedly Proud, and Airy... ( : as well as a few others, California Flake looks Off the meat rack, and the Diagnol on Wallface if you like long hikes and long climbs... Hiked up there last summer only to get rejected by the weather... Looks Spectacular!

All the climbs people posted sound great... Im gunning for New Hampshire as soon as the weather turns....no climbing make me go something, something....?

I almost forgot- the direct -direct on cannon would a sweet 5.9 ao and about 1,000'. Lotsa fixed gear and nice rock. I think maybe the best route on the cliff ?????

john

Looks like I'm not the only one jonesin' to get out. What an awesome list to work on this season! Can't wait to get to the Daks and North Conway- may and june respectively, planning on going to the Gunks mid april! Wahoo!!!

Jim O'Brien wrote:Looks like I'm not the only one jonesin' to get out. What an awesome list to work on this season! Can't wait to get to the Daks and North Conway- may and june respectively, planning on going to the Gunks mid april! Wahoo!!!

I dunno why you guys are staying inside. I was at Salmon River Falls this weekend and the ice was in on all the climbs. When the rock is frozen there is always ice. Ice is the only saving grace for Syracuse there is no rock to be found. I too am secretly jonesin' for some climbing in the 'dacks and the gunks.

What I climbed

mobley wrote: make that mid march Jimo, I'll go

Can't believe no one has mentioned Birdland at the Gunks (Near Trapps). 5.8+, technical first pitch, slightly thuggy second pitch, be sure to do both pitches!

If you are aiming to keep things in the 5.8 range, I would also recommend:

Cathedral:
Three Birches (5.8+) to Black Lung (5.8)
Still in Saigon (5.8) to Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8)

Whitehorse:
Hotter than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8) - this has already been mentioned, but it's worth pointing out that these routes are so named for a reason - come early in the season, come on a cloudy day, or be prepared to sweat!

Cannon:
I'll second the vote for Moby Grape (5.8). It's all there at 5.8 and climbs some really cool features. If you do it be sure to do the Reppy's Crack start - it's a great hand crack.

And once the weather gets REALLY nice, head up to Huntington's Ravine on Mt. Washington and do the Pinnacle rock route (5.7-5.9, depending on where you go). It's quality, the setting is cool, and it will probably be less busy than the valley crags.

In the 5.8 range?...

Cathedral- Bombardment to Blacklung is great but i would like to add Final Gesture (5.7+/8) as a finish to that... A little more heady but not too bad and keeps it consistent at the grade all the way to the top rather than running Up the rest of Refuse...

Whitehorse- Wave Length (5.8) is another fun route in the right price range...

Lower moderates 5.7 and under?

Thin Air (5.6)... i get tired of it sometimes but it is a spectacular route... Better yet start on Toe Crack (5.7) and cut over to finish...

Sliding Board 5.7...

Whitney-Gillman 5.7... fun variations all over the route...

So I'm going to hit the Gunks March 27 and 28, I'm planing to hit some classics in the 5.6 range, Madam G's, CCK, and some others in between. Hope it's not too cold, I don't care- Mobes your coming with me, got a heater? I'm psyched, hope the freakin snow is gone by then...

Ya know - Across The Universe on Mt Willard really is not that hard. Though rated 5.10 the crux is a one move wonder with pro at your face. The "crux" Milky Way pitch is no more than 5.9 with good gear. Good early season route (you can check conditions from the road)

john

Jim--

If coming to the Adirondacks, I would recommend any and all the routes described above, although I would consider staying away from Washbowl for a while considering the recent rockfall, which may or may not have affected the lower Creature Wall (the verdict is still out on that!).

Additionally, The Regular Route up Chapel Pond is phenomenal, and is on par with the Standard Route and Sliding Board on Whitehorse. Also, get yourself out to Poke-O and get on Bloody Mary's first two pitches (5.9+), The Sting (5.8), and Gamesmanship (5.8+)--you will NOT be disappointed. On Pitchoff Chimney Cliff you'll find Pete's Farewell (5.7), The El (5.8), and Brrrright Star (5.9+). All are classic, all are 3 pitches, and all have easy approaches and easy descents. Moss Cliff, is outstanding, but you'll have to wait until the Fall to climb there due to strict Peregrine closures. A Touch of Class is great, just make sure to rap from the top of Hard Times (another amazing route with some commitment required). There are PLENTY of other crags in the Dacks with classic moderates, you just need to have a little sense of adventure. I hope that helps. Good luck and enjoy!

Thanks Chris, I am thinking of taking a week off this early summer and going to the Dak's. My son wants to do a canoe trip, portages suck, climbing is a much better alternative to me. How are the bugs in June in Keene Valley? It's been wet this winter, I'm thinking bugs may be bad-

June in the 'dacks is hit or miss. Most of the time it is miss. We were hiked Hurricane Mtn the last week of June last year and the black flies sounded like rain on the bug hat. The weekend after that was much better, the bugs were pretty much gone by mid afternon.