First Time Through Utah

New to the site, have really enjoyed it so far! Seeking opinions from those in the know:
My wife and I are spending a week in St. George, the last week of May. I'm looking for a day or two of climbing around SLC on our way down, around the 22/23rd.
We have only been climbing a few years, but we really enjoy it. We typically climb up to 5.9 sport and would love to do some 5.7 or below trad climbs. I have a double set of camalots to #3, a set of nuts and some tri-cams.
In my initial research here it looks like the Mule Hollow Wall would fit the bill for trad for a day. Would you spend a day there?
For sport routes in the 5.9'ish range, I see Rock Canyon has a bunch and maybe LLC? You locals get headaches trying to decide where to go? Looks like climbing heaven...Thanks for any input, Kowboy

Kowboy wrote:New to the site, have really enjoyed it so far! Seeking opinions from those in the know: My wife and I are spending a week in St. George, the last week of May. I'm looking for a day or two of climbing around SLC on our way down, around the 22/23rd. We have only been climbing a few years, but we really enjoy it. We typically climb up to 5.9 sport and would love to do some 5.7 or below trad climbs. I have a double set of camalots to #3, a set of nuts and some tri-cams. In my initial research here it looks like the Mule Hollow Wall would fit the bill for trad for a day. Would you spend a day there? For sport routes in the 5.9'ish range, I see Rock Canyon has a bunch and maybe LLC? You locals get headaches trying to decide where to go? Looks like climbing heaven...Thanks for any input, Kowboy

Actually, my first plan was to stop in McCall, ID (about a day's drive) and climb slick rock the next day. Then head south to maybe Maple Canyon...but after seeing all the climbing around SLC, I thought it would be easier to find lodging/camping and more to do.
I hadn't even thought of going to St. George early.
I can see that I'm going to need to plan another trip someday to get in what I don't on this one. Since it could be awhile, I was looking for the "don't miss this climb if you go" kinda climb. I know everyone has an opinion though, they all sound good...
Thanks for the contributions so far, if anyone else wants to chime in, I've got time! Kowboy

If it were me I would make a stop in Salt Lake to do some great trad lines in Little or Big Cottonwood canyon. There is great climbing in the St. George area but with the exception of Snow Canyon and Zion National Park it is pretty much sport climbing. The temperatures will also be more comfortable in Salt Lake. Highs in St. George around that time are about 100. Although I've never been there, Crawdad Canyon outside of St. George is supposed to be a cooler location when the temps start to rise.

If you are coming down through Idaho, stopping off at City of Rocks is highly recommended.

I'd skip BCC and head straight for LCC in salt lake. In the 5.7 and under range, Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, and Perhaps are really good and right next to each other, and you can toprope the Green A after doing Perhaps. Bushwhack Crack is an easy 5.8 with as much gear as you want in the same area.

I would also second the recommendation to stop over at Maple Canyon for bolt clipping. There are few better places for the 5.9 and under sport climber. Don't spend extra time in St George - it will be hot by then, and its hard to beat the variety you would get with City of Rocks, LCC, and Maple.

BCC has some amazing moderate trad lines too....i highly recommend JHCOB Wall, Steorts Arete and Goodro's Crack (one of the earliest 5.10s in N.A., 1940's)...LCC is full of pluggin and chuggin trad lines, but kinda slabby overall...maple is nice...definitely dont miss the city of rocks on your way down...st george is full of fun sporto stuff but the trad climbing there is sub-par (soft rock, plus not a lot of esthetic routes) , drive an extra hour and a half and climb in red rocks/zion would be my two cents...just some suggestions, but where ever you go there you are, you'll find rocks and climb them and smile

Thanks again for all the suggestions! Climbing in St. George is actually secondary, as we're planning to hike in Zion and see the other sites. I've got information on Chuckawalla, Prophesy Wall, Snow Canyon and Crawdad, which should be more than enough to fill the climbing while in St. G. We've climbed in Red Rocks so probably won't go there either...love that place though!

Probably will head to SLC and Maple then, with maybe a stop in City of Rocks, although I'm guessing that could be a destination on it's own too. No votes for Rock Canyon? American Fork? I guess if it's only for a few days...gotta be realistic.

Will also be watching the weather the couple weeks prior to leaving to make the final call. Might determine if we'll be looking for higher elevation or not.

Really appreciate this guys, thanks!

I think watching the weather is a good idea, you will find that some of these areas are quite weather dependent. I would definitely try stopping by Rock Canyon if you want a huge variety of climbing styles. It has trad, sport, slab, overhang, multipitch, limestone and quartzite. It also has a huge selection of routes graded 5.4 to 5.10 so you will have plenty of routes to choose from. American Fork has very little for you to do in that grade range. But if its not too cold Maple Canyon is one of the coolest places I have ever been, so you've gotta give that a try.

First and foremost; as you're new to the site, check out the route finder in the bottom right corner of the home page (if you haven't already). You can select the difficulty, area, trad vs sport vs toprope, and star rating. This is an indispensible tool!

A couple of comments regarding stuff right by SLC (BCC LCC, AFC):

LCC: Looking at the leavenworth area you should be right at home on the granite. By far my favorite canyon, but favors Crack and slab climbing, especially in your difficulty range.

BCC: IS also a great, but much different, canyon IMO. More overhanging/face climbs. The trad lines here are generally trickier to protect than in LCC, but you generally don't rely on crack climbing technique so chances are you have a comfortable rest to place (especially climbs under 5.7). Again a consult to the route finder will show you the 3-4 star routes that are must do's.

AFC: not much to climb in your range.

You may also check out Ferguson canyon, although there may not be a full day of climbing in your range but the walls are right by the river and big trees.

Tyler,
you're waaaayyy too helpful and nice. Hope I don't need advice from you someday.

Zoso,

I already gave you my beta for your projects at dogwood and the slips... Need anything else, just ask! :)

Thanks for the details Tyler, it does sound like LCC is the place for me. I did make a reservation as well for Maple Canyon campground. Considering how far I'm traveleling and that it will be Memorial Weekend to boot, I want to know I've got a spot to pitch a tent.
I did figure out that search function pretty early on, and it's pretty cool!
Thanks again to everyone else as well for the tips, I can't wait to get down there in May! K