torn ACL from bouldering/need suggestions

went bouldering at RJ1 a week ago and fell, ended up tearing my ACL. i'm in need of surgery in april. I've been told I have to start walking on it before i get the slice. anyone have this happen before? if so whats the recovery time? most importantly, will i climb hard again?

Chelsea

I know it sucks now, but try to relax a little. I tore my ACL a few years ago. I was climbing after about 3-4 months after the surgery on toprope, because I was scared to hurt my leg futher. I was back to leading after about 6 Months.

You will climb as hard as you want to after 6 months. Be sure to excercise your leg like your physical therapist tells you to.

You might want to get ready to read a lot of books, and playing video games for about 2-3 months after your surgery.

To tell you the truth, sometimes my good knee hurts more than my cut up knee. This might be because I heavily relied on my good knee to take up the slack for my bad knee.

Stay positive.

chelsea zanichelli wrote:went bouldering at RJ1 a week ago and fell, ended up tearing my ACL. i'm in need of surgery in april. I've been told I have to start walking on it before i get the slice. anyone have this happen before? if so whats the recovery time? most importantly, will i climb hard again?

Why April? Why not March? Or Feb? Seriously- unless there is some compelling reason to wait, get it fixed before it weakens, or you will suffer more and revcovery will be longer.

The ACL is not active while walking. Letting the leg atrophy before the surgery is probably a bad thing, so yes, walk on it if your doc says to. DO NOT twist and turn, walk on uneven surfaces, or walk on ice wher eyou can slip and twist, etc... nor do leg extensions with heavy weights- nothing that stresses the ACL unless otherwise instructed by your doctor.

Recovery from ACL replacement is progressive and takes time. There are 3 options to discuss with your doc. If he only does one of them, see another doc to discuss the other 2. Personally, I would NOT do the Patellar graft, afte all I have learned.

Recovery is (roughly) 2 months to walk well, 3 months to jog or do some agility work, 4 months for better agility, 5 months to start lifting restrictions and prepping for harder sports, then 6 months to remove most restrictions. Regardless of how strong you might be, the graft is not mature for a while. You might want to wait longer for bouldering. P.T. is key regardlees.

If you have a setback like I got (PFS) you might start adding a few months.

Don't waste your time getting suggestions from a bunch of climbers. Go to an expert! Dr. Stephen Paul at the Sports Medicine Center in Boulder is considered a brillant surgeon and his best work is with knees. Trust me, he will take care of you. Good luck.

ok, well i get in in april because im supposed to be walking on it before otherwise the operation wont be a good outcome. it feels weird as hell to walk on.....

ok, well i get in in april because im supposed to be walking on it before otherwise the operation wont be a good outcome. it feels weird as hell to walk on.....

Keep your leg as strong as you can before surgery. Tony is right - get it done asap. I had mine at one month, the surgeon would have done it sooner if there was an opening. Do the physical therapy religiously. I climb harder now than I did before my ACL reconstruction in '05 (didn't really have much to do with each other big picture). I started climbing again around 3 1/2 months - NOT pushing it. I wore my brace for about six months after (climbing and guiding back country trips). I still ware it skiing. Lots of hiking and backpacking will help get your leg strong after is atrophies to a repulsively scrawny size and shape. Most of the mussel mass will come back and all the strength should if you work at it. Might stick to roped climbing for a while - a couple seasons. Also, I had a cadaver acl rather than from the patella or hamstring, the recovery time is quicker if you can handle it. Good Luck.

adam brink wrote:Don't waste your time getting suggestions from a bunch of climbers. Go to an expert! Dr. Stephen Paul at the Sports Medicine Center in Boulder is considered a brillant surgeon and his best work is with knees. Trust me, he will take care of you. Good luck.

Steven Paul fixed me up after a bouldering accident resulted in a compound fracture of the calcaneous. i was a mess and now i am not. i'll spare you the details....he has my vote as one of the best ortho guys available. i've sen a few over the years and he is very, very good

that being said i think that Tony gives you some good advice as well. you should be able to get the knee done as soon as the swelling goes down. i did a patella graft on my knee and it worked out ok. the biggest issue for me was the recovery form the graft and not the ACL repair. if i was doing it today it would probably be a cadaver ACL.

other thoughts - make sure you do all the PT and then some. You will climb again. it will take time. professional athletes are fully back in a year. my experience was that it was longer than that to trust the new knee. your new knee will give you new feedback and sensations. it is a different part. stay positive.
good luck
mk

I had the Patellar graft in '04. I'm prefectly happy with mine. Hamstrings seem to be the wave of the future though. Go with your doctors recommendation on the graft....everyone has an opinion. It depends a lot on your injury and what sports you want to do later.

You do need to get your range of motion back before you have surgery. I was told to wait a month...do light exercise (lots of stationary biking), but nothing that might buckle or twist the knee. What you don't want to risk is any cartilage damage. What Tony said about recovery was pretty much on, though mine went a bit slower than that for jogging. However, I was climbing 5.9 (with a brace) 6 months afterwards, but I took it pretty easy and did nothing to undo the surgery I just went through. 9 months later I was hiking with a full pack on in 60mph winds down in Patagonia. It stressed me mentally, because I thought the knee was just going to give as we were being blown over. It never did...at some point the hurdle is mental..though you do need to be careful to not come back too quick. Really it was a full year until the leg felt 'normal' again. My recommendation would be to push yourself to do the therapy needed to get back, but don't do anything that might re-injure it that first year. It felt like 1.5-2 years until I never really thought about it anymore while exercising. I don't think about it at all climbing now. Take the timelines a general rule, everyone is going to have their own. Especially be careful trying to emulate how fast pros come back. They have 24/7 to rehab and access to the best equipment and trainers.

I didn't climb much before (maybe a few 10's), but now I'm climbing 12...and the knee doesn't slow me down any. If I was a world class climber I might have to adjust how I do intense drop knees...other than that you should be back to normal.

I do notice the change in weather more, feel a bit more "creaky" after hiking for a while - especially downhill. Essentially though I'm doing everything I did before.

adam brink wrote:Don't waste your time getting suggestions from a bunch of climbers. Go to an expert! Dr. Stephen Paul at the Sports Medicine Center in Boulder is considered a brillant surgeon and his best work is with knees. Trust me, he will take care of you. Good luck.

Yeah, I mean... Why bother asking someone who's had the surgery, right?
Teh saem thread I started last Nov actually significantly contributed to some decisions I made, the most important being my sugeon...
Don't get an athletes surgeon for a gerriatric case, or a gerriatric surgeon for an athletes case, etc...
And get a surgeon that specializes in whatever type (hamstring, Patella, Cadavor) of surgery you are getting. Practice practice practice...

Just curious how it happened? Did you fall onto bare ground or just land awkwardly?

Another reason I pretty much only rope climb now. Always hated jumping off of stuff..pre and post ACL tear.

mountainproject.com/v/color…

Some useful info gathered there from a dozen or more survivors who still climb.

adam brink wrote:Don't waste your time getting suggestions from a bunch of climbers. Go to an expert! Dr. Stephen Paul at the Sports Medicine Center in Boulder is considered a brillant surgeon and his best work is with knees. Trust me, he will take care of you. Good luck.

Exactly. Go see a Dr. immediatley. My go to knee/shoulder doc is Dr. Mitch Seemann over at Panoramic Orthopedic.

Tony is right. Don't wait. You'll lose muscle mass (which is key to recovering quickly) and possibly tear up cartilege that still may be in good shape. I dealt with both of those issues. No fun.

Your primary delay should be in finding a doctor who's going to help you with your goals of returning to your active lifestyle. The method will likely be determined by the doctor you pick. While some on this site elected to have a hamstring graft, I had a patellar graft done way back in 1987 that's still going strong. My doc (Kerlan Jobe) is in LA, which is of no help to you. Find out who works on the Broncos, Rockies, CU athletes, etc., and you'll have a decent crop to pick from.

It's kind of a sucky club to find yourself a member of but still, I think everyone who's gone thru this is sending you lots of positive energy. And it's amazing how quickly people recovery nowadays, particularly compared to what guys like me had to go thru.

Pick a good doctor, stick to your rehab and you'll be fine.

to answer your question paul, i fell inside bouldering on padding. it was the first time i didnt wimp out and purposly fall.

i fell in mid movement when i tried lowering my knee to make the move. i landed on it very awkwardly. i thought i broke it. and i have to go to kaiser in order for my insurance to work. were broke along with many other ppl.

i saw a doc two days after it happened, they said i tore it. then i went to an ortho yesterday to reveal the nasty news of slicing the knee. it sux and iv been told to walk, and do light cardio like stairmaster and other things.

i love hiking so i will do that as soon as i am able

I tore my ACL 13 years ago in Feb. I did not want to waste the whole year, so I got a leg brace (like football players use). Came back after 2 weeks to put up my hardest FA ever (Piles of Trials). I then had the surgery (hamstring graf) in Nov so I could rehab over the winter. Make sure you ride a bike. Best of luck.

chelsea zanichelli wrote:to answer your question paul, i fell inside bouldering on padding. it was the first time i didnt wimp out and purposly fall. i fell in mid movement when i tried lowering my knee to make the move. i landed on it very awkwardly. i thought i broke it. and i have to go to kaiser in order for my insurance to work. were broke along with many other ppl. i saw a doc two days after it happened, they said i tore it. then i went to an ortho yesterday to reveal the nasty news of slicing the knee. it sux and iv been told to walk, and do light cardio like stairmaster and other things. i love hiking so i will do that as soon as i am able

I strongly suspect that KAISER is the reason for your wait.
Go in and ask them to put in writing that it wil benefit you to wait until April, and harm you to have the surgery earlier... and wait for their reaction. Which I imagine will produce any result other than them putting that in writing...

I know a woman who was told she had a potentially life-threatening precancerous tumor that needed to be removed immediately... in 5 months. We got her schedule changed in just such a way as I described to you.

I'm just saying...

The only reason I had to wait 4 weeks for my surgery was because I had broken my hand and couldn't use crutches, otherwise they were ready to go in 2 weeks. And I had a lateral meniscus tear besides, not just the ACL.

I spoke with a nurse who used to work at Kaiser, who thought they provided good care but said that the way you get them to act is to take a note or letter containing your request. They're required by law to put the note in the file and, knowing that, they'll typically act upon the request if it's reasonable.

I can't think of ANY reason why you'd wait until April. Plus, what happens if you're out hiking like they recommend and you slip on your weakened knee and blow out some cartilege? It'll be a long crawl back to your car.

thats a good idea, i'll look into that thanks im very pissed i have to wait that long

I just tore my ACL Jan 17th- snowboarding, jumping a big gap. Anyhow- there is alot of good advice on here, but again, go with your doctors recommendation.

Sooner is better, but not too soon. My surgery is on Feb. 25th. I injured on Jan 17th. Make sure the swelling is gone, and strength and flexability is back. And if its your insurance- that was good advice above.

Exercise pre-surgery is the most important. Gaining strength and flexability is key. Your body and doctor will let you know whats best to do. I have been riding a bike(gym) and doing many leg exercises- in fact all but leg curls(except in the pool). This will be the biggest factor in recovery time.

Find a good doctor. You know how to do the research, and ask lots of questions. I am using Dr. Paul Rahill in CSprings. Front Range Ortho. He is a rock climber and mountaineer himself and has done many athletes, including a heisman trophy wining QB at the University of Oklahoma(who had torn both on two seperate years- still won the Heisman!!). Hes good and knows his stuff.

There are 3types- Patellar, Hamstring and cadaver- of grafts-

Patellar- the "gold standard". 80% of all grafts are this. Its strong, it lasts and doesnt damage other muscle. Con- sensative knee to the touch for a year or more.

Hamstring- the next 15% good as well. Same strenghth and lasts like the patellar. Con- it affects your hamstring muscle.

Cadaver- last 5% good but seldom used. Doesnt last as long, and may wear out sooner. Con- from a dead person. Whay use "used" when your own body can provide new??

The beauty is, THE CHOICE IS YOURS. You heard about all three above, all w/ good outcomes. Look for negative info too(INTERNET!!)Do whats best for you.

Recovery-
1-2 weeks down and on crutches.
6-8 weeks w/ a brace- +/- depending on the person
2-4 months of strenghthening and therapy(therapy starts within a week of surgery)

I saw some above were quite conservative, some in the middle- again the beauty- ITS UP TO YOU. I myself will push at a strong, comfortable and safe pace. Doc predicts me climbing by April/May and boarding by next season. I feel thats a correct and reasonable timeline n guide after all my research.

I have been putting tons of time into my knee and its paying off. Its stronger than it started and it sux I have to weaken it with surgery. Just today I took a "Pack Test" for the Wildland Fire Team I work with. I did 3mi., with a 45lb pack in 39min. No pain, no problem.

Surgery is ok. This is my third. Shoulder Cuff, Reconstructive Face and now knee. Trust science, trust your health professionals and you will come back stronger than pre-injury. Just BE SMART and LISTEN to YOUR body.

Good luck with everything- I hope it all works out for you!!! :)

Actually, it's pretty common to wait on these surgeries. It gives time for the internal swelling to go down and to build the other muscles. Many people go months, years, even decades w/o an intact ACL. Mine was gone for several months before I realized it. There's really no harm in waiting other than having to face the inevitable. Won't affect the outcome either way.

Best thing you can do is strengthen the muscles of that leg ahead of time. Resistance training now can help you later. If you can get them to pay for the cadaver graft (way more money), that's your best option. Hamstring vs. patella graft is a toss up as far as pros and cons so go with what your surgeon recommends. They seem to prefer hamstring for women; Bobbi Bensman went that route. Don't fret about Kaiser, they do excellent work and have lots of ACL experience here.

Post-op: ask for forearm crutches (way better), most of the PT you can do yourself (just do it), learn to love the bike (get a road bike), request a CTI2 brace (nothing off the shelf).