Moab area - Intro aid routes?
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A broken foot has thwarted my plans to go to JTree for two weeks in April. So I'm hunting for an alternative. |
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The Tombstone would be a good idea if it is not to hot (easy approach and mostly c1)...Potash will be crawling with people by that time...Sheep rock in arches is fun (virgin wool)...ZE is not to bad if you have a lot of offsets...That thing get blasted with sun..Phantom Sprint is in the shade if it is too hot and is excellent. |
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I think the Hindu in Onion Creek would be a good one. The Kingfisher in the Fisher Towers is straight forward. The problem with Kingfisher is it has some chimney climbing that might not be too good for your foot? |
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Maverick on the Hindu looks like a good one! Thanks. Only question would how those 5.9 free bits would go with a mountaineering boot :) Any chance those sections could be easily aided/french-freed without too much excessive gear if I had to?
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I'd go for Pale Fire before Zenyatta Entrada (C3 as your first aid route, yipes!). See the comments under the N Face of Moses (aid route name). I would think you'd need to bring tons of cams. |
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George Bell wrote:I'd go for Pale Fire before Zenyatta Entrada (C3 as your first aid route, yipes!). See the comments under the N Face of Moses (aid route name). I would think you'd need to bring tons of cams.I didn't say I'd do it first :) After a few weeks.... but good ideas as well, thanks! |
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I climbed Maverick last year as one of my first aid climbs, as far as the aid goes it's pretty easy. The 5.9 pitch shouldn't be a problem in a boot, the start and the top out while rated much easier I thought were harder. The pedulum pitch was the hardest part with your foot issues you may want to second that pitch. |
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I wouldn't recommend Zenyatta Entrada as an early aid line - its not easy, and the soft rock doesn't take abuse well. I'd save it for when you are dialed in. Do the Kingfisher and Phantom Sprint on Echo Tower in the Fishers for big routes with little mandatory free. Mountaineering boots probably wouldn't make much of a difference in the mandatory free on those since it is all offwidth and squeeze chimney. Phantom Sprint is cold at this time of year so bring a belay parka. |
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By the way, its funny the site owner posted in the wrong forum for this! Try the Utah deserts forum. |
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Andrew Gram wrote:By the way, its funny the site owner posted in the wrong forum for this! Try the Utah deserts forum.Damm Andrew, you're right! I need to RTFM. Hindu and Kingfisher both look like good entry-level routes... thanks for all the info so far! |
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The Katchina Spires are really close to Moab, and are really easy to go and climb and bolt latter up the last few pitches of the two spires if you walk around from the top. |
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I would do The Pickle. Its a bolt ladder to a summit. It will get you going through your motions correctly. Then, anything C1 or C2 that isn't in Arches. |
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Pickle looks perfect Sam.. thanks! |
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C0, one footed, in the gym. Check. I'm on my way ;) |
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We did The Pickle yesterday. It was really easy and lots of fun! |
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So far our tick list includes...
What about the Tombstone off Kane Creek? I assume this is the same route that Potter climbed in one of the Mortimer films. Someone suggested that as a good C1/C2 aid route? Andy |
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Playing Hooking as it was once called is a pretty good intro. Often soloed as an aid climb. Not much mandatory free climbing except on the first pitch which is easy enough. Goes in the sun about 11 am right now. |
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Andy Laakmann wrote: What about the Tombstone off Kane Creek? I assume this is the same route that Potter climbed in one of the Mortimer films. AndyAndy, expect a BASE jumper thwacking open next your head the whole time your on the Tombstone. Probably the most jumped rock in the US. |
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The last pitch of the Gossips has some traversing free climbing that isn't hard, but would be tricky without sticky rubber and has funky gear. I doubt you'll have problems, but its something to keep in mind. |
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Andy, |
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Hank Caylor wrote: Andy, expect a BASE jumper thwacking open next your head the whole time your on the Tombstone. Probably the most jumped rock in the US.Gets Jumped a lot for sure. And have even helped some of them find their way up the first time. But there are a lot of days that go by with no one either jumping or climbing. Also it is more dangerous for the jumper to be close to the wall than for you to be close to them, so they will at all cost be heading away. The take off is to the climbers right and not directly over you affording you a safety margin. Still there are lots of days you will be by your self. |