Warm Wasatch Ice

Is anything at all in? Heard negative reports for Provo Canyon and Maple. Heard neutral on Pricecicle. Been up on Great White, Neutral.

Anything on BCC or Scruffy Band area?

Just got back from Santaquin.
Squash Head is great.
Backoff looked really fat, except for the tippy top which was a bit thin as usual.
Candlestick is in and burly looking.
ACT was touched down and huge up high.

Had friends in Santaquin canyon yesterday. Said it was awesome as well.

There's great stuff all around you've just got to be willing to find it. Provo Canyon's got ok stuff, Maple has routes in, Santaquin. The only place that I've heard negative stuff from is Joe's. I'm going to do Stewart Falls sometime early February, and am praying for another storm and warm spell for ACT to be up to par.

"willing to find it" isn't an issue - lol.

No, I'm just not one of those dirtbag climbers who can wander around in the woods all day. I work for a living so have limited time to climb, so it would have been helpful to know that I could just drive, approach, climb something, than to hike around for a few hours and call it a day when my time runs out.

Thanks.

Squash Head in SAntaquin canyon was in this morning, though thinner than reports from last weekend.

Backoff is completely gone. Just water over a slab. People climbed it last weekend and it is all lying at the base now. Be careful out there.....squash head is literally the only thing we saw that was in in Santaquin. You've got another few days to climb it (probably won't last to next weekend), unless it gets really cold again FAST.

I also heard everything in Maple was falling down quickly. I'd imagine Provo is completely shot as well, except maybe the fat first pitch of Stairway. But that'll be a bowling alley with shit falling down.

Squash Head is probably the safest bet in the next few days, and then I'm ready to declare my ice season over.

not all is lost...CCC Falls was still in, yesterday 1/23/09, except for the top curtain

Yeah, just being pessimistic. If we get another cold snap, Santaquin will come back, as will Joe's. I'm just not counting on it after all this rain.

Sniff sniff...so many hope and dreams for this year...dashed...sigh

A lot of you have not lived or climbed ice in Utah for very long have you? We get a January thaw almost every year, where most of the ice melts away. Only to come back in a week or two. At least that is how I have seen it in my 20 years of ice here. Man that makes me sound old...

I've only been climbing ice for 5 years or so (in Utah and generally). So I don't have the broad range of experience. It just seems this warm thaw has been worse than in the past. I hope you're right.

My 2 cents
I was amazed to here that parties were still climbing in provo this weekend. reports that the fifth pitch of stairway had fallen and people still climbing on the first is scary. Also the recent slide on GWI scary. there has been a significant amount of rain below 8000' in the last few days and the recent snow is going to hide alot of dangers. My Number one rule for ice climbing is don't climb in the rain! I can only imagine that all this rain has caused some serious back melting that a climber cant't always see. It is going to take some serious cold weather to get things back in shape. the rest of the season is going to keep me on my toes. use good judgement when heading out in the next couple of weeks and take the extra time to make sure things are bonded. also check the avalanche conditions. when temps rise most drainages are going to slide. the ice will be back next year, will you?
climb smart

With the colder temps of the last few days, I took a chance and hiked up Battle Creek Canyon in PG. The popular climb to the far right of the Waterfall is just about ack in. I bouldered around the start and found the ice to average about 2-3 inches. But if the cold temps continue, it should thicken up some more.

Managed to get out and climb in Provo Canyon this morning. A few other parties were out, all on Stairway to Heaven. Here's the recent update:

The upcanyon climbs are mostly out. While climbable, they are thin (Millers, Finger, the Fang). Miller's Thriller's first pitch may be completely iceless, so....not fun.

Stairway looks good through p3. Pitch 4 has a nice hole in the top that looks sketchy, and pitch 5 is a disaster. The pillar is re-forming, but it's a death wish.

Bridal Veil left is out, bridal veil right and white nightmare are in. We climbed the latter two, and found them quite good. Sticky, wet ice, thick enough to climb and protect, and maybe easier than usual (the angle seems a bit more laidback, or there are more rests or something, compared to when I've climbed them in the past). Both are worthwhile for the walk.

Got a few more days at least....hopefully.