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Gear for mountaineering and apline climbing in Alaska

Original Post
Ed Rhine · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0

Hey there . . . I am planning a trip to AK in the spring and wanted some advice from those of you who have been there. I already have a huge down belay jacket, but was wondering if most people used synthetic instead there? Also I was thinking that a hooded soft-shell and hard shell or hybrid bids would be the best option for while moving on the climbs and routes. I do have a Marmot stretch hardshell jacket that I will take as well.

Does this sound like a good idea for pretty active apline climbing. I am new to the whole soft-shell thing, and most of my gear was purchase 8-10 years ago and is bulky 3ply

One a side note, we are looking at doing the Cassin (hopefully) and West Col of Huntington's and some alpine rock in little swiss. So any suggestions or beta you have are mucho appreciated.

Also I prob need to get a new stove and would love suggestions on what has worked well for people in very cold, high altitude, and possibly foreign travel situations.

Thanks for your help!!

RobR · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 10

Hey Ed I have spent two climbing seasons in AK, one in the Chugach doing an out and back traverse of the Matanuska Glacier and climbed the West Butt in 2003. I have always used down for my parka and sleeping bag, to keep them dry I used contractor garbage bags to line my main pack as well as both stuff sacks, remember your life depends on keeping them dry. Any sleeping bag that is wet up there will suck and down offers significant weight and bulk advantages. Also on Denali I had the heaviest parka Mountain Hardware makes and probably would not consider taking less on a return trip. For other layers I had a burly Goretex hard shell plus 2 heavy fleece jackets and lots of long underwear, remember the top of Denali is one of the coldest palaces on earth and it's equivalent Himalayan altitude of about 23 thousand feet kills your ability to keep your self warm. You could definitely substitute a soft shell for a top and bottom fleece layer but some sort of full hard shell for top and bottom is essential. Good luck with your trip, AK is awesome.

Rob

Chris Sheridan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,693

Hey Ed,

RMNP in the winter is great training for the Alaska range. IE: lots of snow and rock, less then idea ice conditions and miserable weather, though the snow tends to be a bit heavier and wetter in the Alaska range. Find a few routes up there that match your objectives in Alaska. Not only will you be better physically prepared for the trip, but you'll learn what clothing systems work on the types of routes you plan on doing.

Keep in mind that different clothing systems work better for different types of routes. You might like the bibs on a route like the cassin, but find them way too restricting on a route that has a higher percentage of technical climbing.

Chris

Ed Rhine · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0

Thanks for the advice everyone!! It sounds (fortunately) like I already have a lot of the stuff that I will need as far as clothing is concerned

Rob - - Thanks for the tip on the bag liners to keep the gear dry. I have an old, but in good condition NF himalayan parka that was almost too warm for south america and should work well in AK.

Chris -- RMNP and some exploring in the Gore Range and lots of backcountry skiing are what we have planned for the climbing part of our training.

Sam -- We are trying to set our sights high, but reasonable and not going until spring 2010 so we have a while to perfect our system, which should help incredibly. Thanks for the tip on the gear article. Thanks for the stove tip too . .. It has been quite a while since I have needed to buy new gear and sometimes feel lost in the new tech thats out there. As for tents we have 2 two man single walls that we can use for high camps on any route if necessary and then a monster 4 man Mtn Hardwear tent.
I would definitely be interested in some of the gear, what specifically are you looking to get rid of?

Thanks again for your comments and if you have any other tips/suggestions please send them.

Also what do you think is a good boot option. I know that we will need something very warm, but also ideally something that can climb at a reasonable level. Right now I have Nepal Evo's (not warm enough I would imagine -- even with overboots) and a 12 year pair of Koflachs that are basically doorstops now.

Thanks again!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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