best crack climbing shoes?

what type of shoe has worked best for you when crack climbing? specifically, for me, i need a shoe that protects the outside of my foot from getting bruised when i use crack footwork. also appreciated would be some advice on crack technique to help me avoid beating up my feet more than i have to. suggestions?

oh, and before anyone says anything, yes i am aware of the search feature and yes, i'm sure there are at least a dozen threads already on this topic, but i wanted to open another one and have an interactive discussion.

Jon-

I picked up a pair of Acopa JB's and they are awesome for long routes and thin hand and larger cracks. For thin cracks you can't beat Sportiva Mythos or 5.10 Moccasyms. The more you climb cracks, the less it will hurt but the stiff JB's will make a huge difference as well.

Climb on!
Aaron

The megas are boxy though, so if you are talking 5.9, yeah, but for me, I can't imagine wearing them on fingercracks- can't get anything in.
I think it depends what supports and fits you foot. The most important feature to me at that they are dagger-toes, not scrunchies. If your toes are curled, they suck- better to have them out flat and backed up with a quality midboard.

Some people liek the mythos despite the softness of that shoe, but like you, I can't climb with them in wider cracks or the outside of hte foot hurts, opposite the arch. I have to use board lasted shoes. The Kaukulators are still my #1 crack shoe (built on the mythos last, ya' know). More than a few people like the stiffer Red Chili's and the Acopa JB seemed liek a great shoe, but a little narrow for me.
The Boreal Ballet- it just didn't fit me.

5.10 moccasyms, just as long as its not a burly fist crack. they are pretty decent in offwidths too

ive always used my 5.10 spires for hand sized cracks and larger. i havent done much with finger or tips cracks soi wouldnt know about that size. but i love my spires...theyre good for edging too if you need a face move

Jon,

Whatever shoe you end up with, you'll want to lean onto something that has a mid-sole and not slip lasted. Unless your crack technical is more advanced or you are into pain. While you "could" climb cracks in a slipper, doing so can push the boundaries of fun.

I'm a huge Acopa fan with the Chameleon functioning well for this in addition to the Aztec and JB (for a high top). Also great, La Sportiva Mythos though watch the sizing since the stretch a considerable amount.

Have fun!

thanks all. as people have brought up, you are correct to assume that i'm not into finger-sized cracks just yet. right now i'm mostly concerned with thin hands and up (with maybe a ratchet here or there).

does anyone have any technique advice on how to avoid bruising? if tommy caldwell can free two routes on el capitan in a day, there must be some way that skilled climbers can avoid bruises. otherwise his feet wouldn't last 60+ pitches.

Jon Ruland wrote:thanks all. as people have brought up, you are correct to assume that i'm not into finger-sized cracks just yet. right now i'm mostly concerned with thin hands and up (with maybe a ratchet here or there). does anyone have any technique advice on how to avoid bruising? if tommy caldwell can free two routes on el capitan in a day, there must be some way that skilled climbers can avoid bruises. otherwise his feet wouldn't last 60+ pitches.

La Sportiva Miura lace ups rock for all crack sizes (off width to fingers). Get them a little looser than you would for sport/bouldering.

When you're doing finger cracks like Tommy, you dont get enough of your foot in there for it to hurt :)Thin cracks work your ankles more than your feet. If your foot is hurting could be your sticking too much of it in, our you haven't done it long enough for it not to hurt.

Jon,

Besides becoming better with technique try taping. Johnson and Johnson 2 inch cloth athletic tape.

chockstone.org/TechTips/Glo…

squiddo wrote:Jon, Besides becoming better with technique try taping. Johnson and Johnson 2 inch cloth athletic tape. chockstone.org/TechTips/Glo…

Unless you're climbing at Vedavoo, tape is aid.

As far as shoes, if you're using a slipper, even a lace up, as someone suggested, the fit needs to be bigger, otherwise you're toes will be slightly bent and your toe knuckles will take a beating in thin cracks. Also, while I think Kaukulators are nice for hand size cracks and wider, they always felt too insensitive for anything else.

squiddo

hands are no problem. they do get beat up even though i tape, but that's happening less and less as my technique improves. the issue for me is mostly that the outside edge of my foot, or the "pinky toe knuckle" to be more precise, gets bruised quickly when i use crack footwork.

as john b suggested, maybe i'm inserting too much of my foot, or maybe i'm not using the proper shoes. or both.

The sore pinky toe may be more a function of technique than anything else. Like John said above, at least when you're climbing thin cracks, you should be primarily smearing the crack with the outside edge of your shoe with your heel dropped really low to maximize the amount of rubber against the rock. My guess is that either your shoes are too flimsy or too tight.

I like my Mythos for cracks. They are nice and soft and conform to the walls of the cracks. If you wear super tight toe curling shoes then your toes will break off when you jam your feet.

The more practice you get the less you will bruise. When you gain some confidence in your technique you will start to loosen your death grip. Takes time to learn just how much pressure is needed (or not needed) to hang on.

Fat Dad wrote: Unless you're climbing at Vedavoo, tape is aid. As far as shoes, if you're using a slipper, even a lace up, as someone suggested, the fit needs to be bigger, otherwise you're toes will be slightly bent and your toe knuckles will take a beating in thin cracks. Also, while I think Kaukulators are nice for hand size cracks and wider, they always felt too insensitive for anything else.

I find taping generally makes an individual route harder for me, rather than easier, although it makes long trips less traumatic. The "tape is aid" sentiment and discussion are so tired at this point I'm surprised people still bring it up, though I guess I'm taking the bait right now.

Anyway, here's an alternative taping method, I prefer it for longer/multiple pitches of fist, or if the rock is very sharp.

monsteroffwidth.com/climbin…

I actually sort of dislike the JB. I'm a littler guy and it's just way too stiff for anything but full-on heel/toe action. I suppose I'm not heavy enough to flex it properly. Try the scarpa techno, it's a somewhat stiffer mythos. also athe 5.10 prism has a nice blend of lateral stiffness and longitudinal flexibility, although it has a somewhat boxy forefoot.

I wear moccasyms for thin cracks, but they work all right on most any size. I wear katanas for all around, although the thin rand is a liability. I wear JBs for hands and bigger.

Also, slip lasted shoes have midsoles. In fact, every single shoe I just mentioned is slip lasted. Acopa was pretty proud that they had produced one of the few modern slip lasted high tops.

That's kind of irrelevant though, if you really *need* a stiff shoe to climb crack in, you really need to strengthen your feet.

I'm very happy with my LaSportiva Barracudas

. I find they have a more natural foot shape, so my toes are flat even when they are snug. My experience, and that of others, suggests that they fit about a half size (Euro) smaller than any other LaSportivas. I have at least four other Sportivas that are 41.5 and these are 41.

Here's an older thread with some more opionions - mountainproject.com/v/climb…

Mythos for tender cracks, Kaukulators for the worst! 5.10 Moccasyms(lace up stylie) have trodded multiple folks up El Cap free. My 2cents.

Peter Spindloe wrote:I'm very happy with my LaSportiva Barracudas

. I find they have a more natural foot shape, so my toes are flat even when they are snug. My experience, and that of others, suggests that they fit about a half size (Euro) smaller than any other LaSportivas. I have at least four other Sportivas that are 41.5 and these are 41.

the barracudas are being discontinued, so if you're searching for a pair you can probably find them on sale.

anyone here have any experience trad climbing in the 5.10 Piton or LaSportiva Tradmaster?

Fat Dad wrote: Unless you're climbing at Vedavoo, tape is aid.

I personally really like red chili's for crack climbing. I loved my pair of phantoms, but they don't make those anymore. I just bought a pair of mescalitos and they were great for a week at indian creek.

If your planning on climbing lot of cracks putting seam grip over the top of the toe area on the shoes will help them last longer.