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CO Front Range: Ice Condition Reports ('08/'09)

Mike Larson · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 95

FYI, was up at the squid today and it is barely in at all (contrary to what Helmuth's website says). Expect pitch 1 to be 30m+ of drytooling on bare rock to some hideous anemic sunleached ice. Unless you're up for a lot of drytooling, I'd save yourself the effort and climb something else.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

JAWS:
We were the 1st ones there on Saturday a good chunk of the middle when you pull over the top was missing so having climbed it in the past we hiked some more up canyon and left.

Dunno know what the other 8 people did that were on the way into it...

Kevin Cahill · · Bailey, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 40

Hessie Chimney as of 1/3/09: P1 is dry except for a little ice near the exit, which we were able to place a 13cm screw. P2 (left and right finishes) have a spit of ice near the exit, else they're totally dry. Great mixed route though.

Marc Durant · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 0

I went up to All Mixed Up on new years day with a couple of friends. It's in pretty bad shape, the only new ice I saw was on the extreme right side. Climbed Wazz's instead, there's a pretty good pillar touched down but the rest of the curtain is just icicles.

The approach from Mills Lake up to the climb is horrendous - mostly postholing with occasional crawling to stay on top of the crust.

Absolutely minimal avy danger except perhaps out of the bowl at the top of AMU.

SAL · · broomdigiddy · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 790

lincoln was in descent shape friday and crowded of course.

Silverplume is climbable but wet.

Jeff Fox · · Delaware, OH · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,320

As of yesterday, Coors Lite in CCC is still completely out...WTF?!?

Lee Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 1,545

High 50's on Wednesday and 65 on Thursday...I don't think we will see CCC ice until this stops.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

justin h. took me up on an offer for lincoln last week -- unfortunately, the headwall sucked donkey balls with multiple hollow layers of faceted ice; ah well, we got some good sticks in anyhoo.

Phoenix · · louisville, colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 310

Any ice up in BC yet?

EDIT: Does anybody know what the approach in Vail looks like?

Jeff Brosius · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2004 · Points: 10
Phoenix wrote:Any ice up in BC yet? EDIT: Does anybody know what the approach in Vail looks like?
Went to the Rigid Designator on Saturday. Trail was well packed snow, and as easy an approach as one could expect (save, perhaps, the Lower Bridge Routes at Ouray.)

Middle section of ice on the Dez was crap, however.
Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

There is no ice in Boulder Canyon, there is no water in the aqueduct, there is no hope for humanity.

On a happier note, there is some rad ice down south, Alpha Male on Wolf Creek Pass is in spectacular shape, and Zapata Falls near the sand dunes is lots of fun (short as all get out, but in an unbeatable setting) Pics and area description coming soon.

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375
Evan Simons wrote:There is no ice in Boulder Canyon, there is no water in the aqueduct, there is no hope for humanity. On a happier note, there is some rad ice down south, Alpha Male on Wolf Creek Pass is in spectacular shape, and Zapata Falls near the sand dunes is lots of fun (short as all get out, but in an unbeatable setting) Pics and area description coming soon.
Sounds pretty sweet can't wait to see pictures
Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Zapata is now listed as an area under Wolf Creek Pass / San Luis Valley. Here are pics of Alpha Male and Zapata.

Alpha Male
Zapata
Zapata fun

ScottC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Wondering if anybody has checked out North, or South, Clear Creek Falls near Creed?
Thanks!

Eli Helmuth · · Ciales, PR · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 3,441

WARNING: All of the south-facing and especially lower elevation ice climbs in RMNP are currently in a rapid state of decline due to above freezing temperatures at 10k. Check the NIWOT ridge weather station and Bear Lk. snotel sites, (linkable via climbinglife.com weather links) and you'll see it's 45F inside the unheated weather station at almost 12k and above freezing at Br. Lake just below the south-facing Squid.

Colder, north facing mountain sides could be benefiting from the potential snowmelt due to radiation induced melting, but cold, dry snow is tough to melt and at this stage of the game, less likely to for and ice up high. Water flowing on south-facing cliffs could flash freeze this weekend and start some more ice growth if it stays colder but not arctic. Martha's on Mt. Lady could be an exception but likely to hot there at the moment for safer conditions- Hallett's Chimney could have potential in this unusually warm weather- sometimes you've got to take the tools for walk to find out...that there's nothing there.

I've been in England and Spain for the last few weeks as evidenced by the most recent Dec. 26th conditions report. Remember that conditions change constantly, especially when temperatures are above freezing or it is snowing and blowing heavily and you've got to do your own math.

Currently it's 54 degrees and sunny at my house at almost 9k and I'm going bouldering in the sun without a shirt before it gets dark! Ice climbing is for winter weather which is due to arrive soon. I'll be in the Tyndall and Chaos Canyons and will update conditions tomorrow night.
cheers,
Eli

kirkadirka · · Down there somewhere · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 115

Yup, saw Jaws turn to crap on Sunday even with a temperature well below freezing. That's 0 for 3 on my ice climbing attempts (in Colorado) this year.

No ice in BC or CCC.

WORST FRONT RANGE ICE SEASON EVER!

Lee Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 1,545
Kirk Heatwole wrote:WORST FRONT RANGE ICE SEASON EVER!
Dude, you clearly don't remember 1977! It was like 70 degrees every day in January.
Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

On Saturday we turned around from Jaws from the sublimination happening...

Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205

Before I head up to Black Lake in RMNP, I am wondering if anyone knows the condition of West Gully and adjacent climbs in the area. The general feeling I get is the ice is questionable. Please advise.

Thank you

Dan Dalton · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 1,465
Shane Zentner wrote:Before I head up to Black Lake in RMNP, I am wondering if anyone knows the condition of West Gully and adjacent climbs in the area. The general feeling I get is the ice is questionable. Please advise. Thank you
Although the ice sucks, there has been a fair amount of snow up there (definitely not like in years past). Be careful for avy danger, especially on west gully. This is more of an early season climb.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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