Winter Alpine Climb Suggestions

Looking to do some winter alpine climbs this season, but I have yet able to find a good source for winter routes. I understand that a lot of routes aren't climbable until the summer...so what's a climbable winter route? I want to plow through snow, hack ice, and get cold this winter. Please help me.

North Face of Longs......

Old Cables Route

There are lots of different rotes that can be climbed in winter the
condition of the snow pack/ time of day ect will determine which ones are good to climb , you as a climber must make a go no go
when you arrive on site .. Lot's of climbs are ok to do in winter
if you can evaluate the conditions and therein lies the rub.That
being said here is a few of my suggestions....

Cables route on Longs, pretty tame, long approach not much appeal unless you havent climbed Longs and even than there are better routes to the top....

Flying Dutchman on longs should fit the bill....Has everything you
asked for, good ice right now....

All mixed up on Notchtop more of an ice/mixed climb but you
can look forward to a long snow slog to get to 3 pitches of ice/rock.

If the avi is ok Dragons tail col on Flattop is a quick fix/ good
workout short approach and have seen small sections of WI here n there on it and if you pack yer skis along you get the added benefit of scarring the living shit out of snowshoers as you scream back down the flattop mtn trail to the bear lake parking lot..good views up there also BTW

Stuff up around black lake is good espy if it's windy (good training
for Patagonia)but the approach can sometimes be the crux..Last two miles of trail can be all ice ....

Mountaineers route on Hallets good short approach same as Dragons tail fits the bill nicely ....

E face of Nochtop but the conditions must be right (Id wait till spring/ early summer for this one.... a classic must do though)

Stay safe check the avi reports and rembember if there is any doubt than there is no doubt!!!! GO-DO something else you'll live longer
Cheers
Ice...

I respectfully disagree with most of these winter route recommendations in RMNP.

The north face of Longs is one of the worse winter climbs in the park as it is high probability avalanche terrain: 35+ degree slopes, unsupported, bed layer of smooth granite slabs, cross-loaded and with a terrain trap of the Diamond below you - badddd idea unless you're Hank Caylor and are good at flying.

West face on Longs is generally the safer way to go in winter and it can often have decent skiing.

Dragontail could be good but is currently in poor climbing condition.

FD has a bad section of avalanche potential where the route joins the Lambslide - could be good or bad.

East face of Notchtop is more of an autumn route and rarely in safe enough conditions in spring- gone by summmer. Terrible danger on that on in winter.

Ridges are generally your best bet in winter on the high peaks and west the better aspect for more stable snow.

Martha on Mt. Lady is one of the best mid-winter alpine routes in the park if it comes into shape. Last year it was IN very late in spring but most years it's best good from Jan to March.

Maybe check-out my conditions report at climbinglife.com for more info and if you look back at last winter's reports, you'll have a better idea of what kinds of routes are getting done and what 'typical' winter conditions can look like.

Safe travels,
Eli

There's a guide book out there, can't seem to find my copy right this minute, but i think the title is "Colorado Snow Climbs", it's grouped by season and should give you some ideas at least. I know Neptunes has it, as does REI and prolly other places too.

Eli,

You should offer a course or something in avi for the RMNP region?

Hey Kevin,

Thanks for the suggestion and I actually am offering a number of different avalanche courses this winter/spring. All are field based and geared for climbers and skiers, and all courses take place in Rocky Mountain National Park. Private training is also an option and many folks pursue this as your course can be more individualized to fit your goals, prior knowledge and training.

In fact, as of last week I've started my own guide service in RMNP, Eldo, etc. and you can find all the info on avalanche course options here:
guide.climbinglife.com/inde…

I'm also offering backcountry skiing courses, guide trainings, international trips, and local rock climbing skills courses in Boulder from beginner to advanced level.

Thanks MP gang for your continued support over the years -this site kicks butt.

Happy Holidays!
Eli

Anyone have an idea how Martha's is looking over Christmas?

I think about 4-5 years ago Santa barely survived when his sleigh impacted just below the headwall; there were dead reindeer & parts everywhere. Just be careful, he likes to hit the special egg nog container every now and then.

Any recommendations for some good alpine ridge climbs that would be fun in Winter? Something that would be no harder than 5.5 in the summer, that you can access without having to cross suicidal avalanche terrain?

There's got to be some alpine ridge routes in the Front Range, Indian Peaks and RMNP that folks climb during the winter months. What are some favorites?

Kai Larson wrote:Any recommendations for some good alpine ridge climbs that would be fun in Winter? Something that would be no harder than 5.5 in the summer, that you can access without having to cross suicidal avalanche terrain? There's got to be some alpine ridge routes in the Front Range, Indian Peaks and RMNP that folks climb during the winter months. What are some favorites?

Keyhole Ridge on Long's, though it's a lot of hiking for a few hundred feet of steeps.

Blitzen Ridge, I've heard, fun, exciting, 2 day round trip in winter.

3rd Flatiron, at dawn when wet stuff is frozen solid.

I've always wanted to do the NE ridge of Sharkstooth in winter

F.Dutchman and top out via Kieners

there's some ideas

I went up to climb the Iron Gates ridge route on Meeker today.

summitpost.org/route/161780…

It looked to be in fine shape for climbing, but we turned back right before the patrol cabin due to nasty wind. (We were getting pummeled even in the cirque, and the ridge looked really unpleasant.)

I'm going to go back on a less windy day. It looked like a fun route.

Kelso Ridge on Torreys Peak might fit the bill. I climbed the route in January 2001 and remember a few moves near the summit that were intersting due to snow cover. However, stay away from the saddle area between Grays/Torreys because of severe avy danger. Grays/Torreys Peaks are notorious for avalanches, and, the danger this winter is high. Downclimbing the route could be your best option regarding the descent.

This is maybe one of the worst post I’ve ever read. Those who have posted are just spraying routes they’ve done. None of which are in the original post wheelhouse. One post actually suggested that he climbed the keyhole route then the third flat iron when it’s frozen over. Come on! People come here for real information not to hear people spray.

Kai Larson wrote: Any recommendations for some good alpine ridge climbs that would be fun in Winter? Something that would be no harder than 5.5 in the summer, that you can access without having to cross suicidal avalanche terrain? There's got to be some alpine ridge routes in the Front Range, Indian Peaks and RMNP that folks climb during the winter months. What are some favorites?

Mt Bancroft's E. ridge might be up your alley if you haven't done it already.  It's a quality route and good bang for your buck. 

James Scully wrote:

Mt Bancroft's E. ridge might be up your alley if you haven't done it already.  It's a quality route and good bang for your buck. 

This post if from 2008.  

Thanks for the suggestion though.