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From: Boulder, CO
Dec 10, 2008
I had climbed in Upper Dream Canyon in the early eighties, and returned almost a decade later and the first route I set as a sport climb was Earth Voyage. This 4 pitch sport route interested me as a multi-pitch route like no other in the Boulder Area, since there were no multi-pitch sport routes in Boulder at that time. The Earth Voyage face was the natural selection and became Dream Canyon's first multi-pitch sport climb. I rappelled in from the top, set the belay station anchors for each pitch and returned and top-roped the pitches with a Gri-Gri, marking the clip stances along the way. Many of the routes that I set in the canyon were put up like this, solo. I would then recruit a belayer for the red-point ascent. The blank, sheer face left of China Doll crack system was just the beginning of the multi-pitch routes that would come to life in Dream Canyon. I would alternate between this wall and Vampire Rock for its multi-pitch potential as well.