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All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Juan Tabo Canyon > Shield > Chicken Chop Suey (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R)
A fine climb that has laybacks, fingerlocks, fistjams, off-width arm/knee bars, crimps, edges, slabby smears, mantles, and exposure. With some gardening, a definite 3 star!
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2 #4, 2 #5 (could get away with one) and 2 #6 Camalots (no BigBros) were sufficient for the off width pitch.
Did I lead us right? I'm belaying at the middle of pitch 7 on the "3rd class" section. Nice patina rock below, but zero bolts and only 4 pieces placed-airy, but not harder than 5.6-5.7.
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  4.6 from 7 votes
Darryl Macias
Nov 26, 2008
“A fine climb that has laybacks, fingerlocks, fistjams, off-width arm/knee bars, crimps, edges, slabby smears, mantles, and exposure. With some gardening, a definite 3 star!”  

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A fine climb that has laybacks, fingerlocks, fistjams, off-width arm/knee bars, crimps, edges, slabby smears, mantles, and exposure. With some gardening, a definite 3 star!
Did I lead us right? I'm belaying at the middle of pitch 7 on the "3rd class" section. Nice patina rock below, but zero bolts and only 4 pieces placed-airy, but not harder than 5.6-5.7.
Pay attention here! We opted for the route in red after the "3rd class" ramp at pitch 7 1/2, but should have traversed left towards the arete (blue line), where the arch was. The red arrow indicates where the double bolt belay station is. The last pitch, with a few bolts and fun 5.8-5.9 mantles/smears beckon.
On pitch 6. Although Robb looks like he is doing weed control, we found this "open to interpretation" section a nice 5.8, avoiding the left crack laden with thorn bushes.
The famous "bivy ledge" on pitch 5 (our 3rd pitch with 70m rope). Lunchtime!
PITCH 3: Cranking Skills or Hospital Bills. Robb McLean opts for the former, stemming on the crux off width. Classic 5.9-Yosemite style! Pro is good, just bring big stuff.
Belay station after pitch 2 1/2, on a 70m rope. This fun 5.8 layback is just below the tree, coming up to join pitch 3. Slight hanging belay, no bolts here.
2 #4, 2 #5 (could get away with one) and 2 #6 Camalots (no BigBros) were sufficient for the off width pitch.
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