Type: Trad Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Sharp, Newman, Butterfield, 1980
Page Views: 15,136 total · 55/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


148 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Judging by the amount of chalk on the holds, this must be a popular route. The line is stellar. One of the best pitches of the grade, but probably not led as often as one might think...Modern gear has made an amazing impact! Before micro cams this was a super serious lead. Now its still a bit heads up, but the competent climber with Aliens or TCU's should be OK.

The start of the route is a play on angular irregularities. Two ways to start: Power straight up the pillar (reachy), or stem the left side and tiptoe out right(balancy). Small cams protect between the two fixed pieces (both dubious). Crank past that pin and now climb the cool dihedral with stems and liebacks and better pro. Lower off 78'.

Protection Suggest change

0.3"-1.5" cams (2x.4" "sews it up"), nuts, 1 fixed peg + 1 fixed Roller (YIKES!), and a lower off anchor.

Per Kaylee Ludden: 1-2X 0.1 or 0.15, 2-3X 0.2 or black Totem; 0.3"-1.5" cams (2x 0.3-0.4" "sews it up"), nuts, 1 fixed pin, and a two bolt anchor. 

Photos

loading