Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > River Rd > Anasazi Buttress > Artist Tears (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3)

Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

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Damn, my aiders are still up there, guess I'm goin back up! better put a new screamer on that small brass nut.

Looking down pitch 2. Photo: Todd Gordon.

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4.7 from 14 votes

Jason Kaplan

Nov 10, 2008

“Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is?
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Damn, my aiders are still up there, guess I'm goin back up! better put a new screamer on that small brass nut.

Woa. This is what caught me?.... Anyone notice how soft the rock is? <br>

Looking down pitch 2. Photo: Todd Gordon.

Todd Gordon comfortable at the belay. Todd Gordon Collection.

More great pro.

more protection... so what were the bad pieces like? You will just have to go do the route to really know.

Some excellent "fixed gear" on the crux pitch.

contemplating and concentrating

Bitchin krukonogi hook

different view of the same piece.

Our Findings

Looking down the "crux" pitch

Sweet another successful lasso! This way I didn't have to risk a factor 2 onto the drilled angle anchor.

Not a bad view from the belay atop P3.

P3. I back cleaned once I got a piece above the bolt so that I would have everything possible to get up this thing.

Artist Tears

The goods

P1 of my "Clean Solo" in '01. P2 took some real deep thought to not use the hammer and lots of concentration. Truly one of my favorite and most memorable Clean Solo Desert ascents.

Eric on pitch 4, skipping most of the studs and placing natural clean gear for pro. alot of them are angled downward.

it wasn't easy getting to here but I was pretty happy to be top stepping on a small nut to clip the first bolt in the bolt ladder above.

How they spotted this line in the black streak is beyond me.

Artist's Tears. Photo: Todd Gordon

Looking down pitch 4

C.B. Gettin' it done on P3 of Arist Tears

Eric on the lead.

Eric higher up P4.

Hooking the next scar off the pitch 1 belay. scar = huge freaking sandy shallow blown-out fist-sized bottomless hole. Excellent route-finding skills!

Pitch 1

looking down from the top.

NOT COOL! Maybe scratching a name (like the routes name) on a first isn't so bad but it's not ok for everyone to do it there after, like bragging rights, there was someone in 03. next thing you know it looks like a chalk board.

More bomber pro, great surface area contact... It was to begin with anyway, tells ya something about the rock.(I watched it crumble around the lobes as I was on it)

looking down from the belay on top of P3.

The final real pitch...this pitch is the longest, steepest and most casual.

from near the top on the way back down.

ripped scream aid, I'm suprised the nut held. Good thing as I stopped just above Eric at the belay.

Nice tricam

this was set up above the first 2 pins, and below the nut that caught me. I figured it might keep from crashing into helpless eric below.

Beauty

Greg Epperson on pitch 1.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon.

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