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False Premonitions
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 12
votes
Routes in Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Classic Handcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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False Premonitions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mystery Splitter T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Seamus Chill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Two Out of Three Ain't Bad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed 5.12 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, April 1994 |
| Page Views: | 3,677 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | josh holmes on Oct 17, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
As of 2020, climbing in Capitol Reef requires a permit: mountainproject.com/forum/t…
Description
An amazing hand crack in a right facing dihedral. Climb easy broken rock 10 feet to a ledge at the base of the corner proper. From here jam absolutely amazing hand crack (#2 camolots or #2.5 friends) to a good stance below crux off-width (less than a body lenght, a #4 camalot fits perfect). Thrutch up off-width for a couple of moves to the anchor on the left.
Location
The route is located about 100 yards to the right of Mystery Splitter on the North side of the canyon. Drive as if going to Classic Hand Crack, but park about 100 yards past the picnic tables/pavilion on the left (north) side of the road at an obvious wash. Hike back up the road (west) about 30 feet and follow cairns up a wash, eventually gaining the right side of the gully and topping out at the base of the cliff about 50 feet to the right of the route. Rappel the route with a 60M rope. There is an EXTREMELY SANDY off-hands to tips 5.11 corner 10 feet the right, that I would not recommend to anyone.
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