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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel > China Doll (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3)
Looking at the crux pitch, I think I can make out the bolts atop "P5". Rope drag would probably be a killer if you linked 4-5.
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Looking back at pitch 4 from the cramped, pigeon-crusted belay. Between the piece at the right of the pic and the next piece down the rope (15-20'), hooking was the only way to get up this thing clean.
This anchor is about 10-20 feet shy of the old 1/4 inch bolted anchor. I think it's a better idea as you can still see the crux pitch which is safer for the leader but you actually have bomber bolts instead of questionable bolts. Link 1-3 and stop here.
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Jason Kaplan
Oct 24, 2008
“Looking at the crux pitch, I think I can make out the bolts atop "P5". Rope drag would probably be a killer if you linked 4-5.”  

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Nearby Photos

Pitch 3.
Mike in the pitch 5 roof.
Mike cleaning pitch 2, he got a lot of practice ascending a traversing rope on this climb.
Looking back at pitch 4 from the cramped, pigeon-crusted belay. Between the piece at the right of the pic and the next piece down the rope (15-20'), hooking was the only way to get up this thing clean.
Looking at the crux pitch, I think I can make out the bolts atop "P5". Rope drag would probably be a killer if you linked 4-5.
This anchor is about 10-20 feet shy of the old 1/4 inch bolted anchor. I think it's a better idea as you can still see the crux pitch which is safer for the leader but you actually have bomber bolts instead of questionable bolts. Link 1-3 and stop here.
Nathan following the "3rd" pitch, I think it's most logical to link to where I stopped in one pitch instead of 2 as we did it or worse yet 3 as the original route did.
Nathan leading skipping some unnecessary bolts.
The route as seen from the creek.
BJ on 1st pitch.
The fourth pitch. Fuzzy pic from broken camera. Nice work cleaning Eric!!
Pitch 2/3.
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