Dreamweaver Conditions?

I did the Notch Couloir a couple weeks ago (10/2) with a friend from out of state and we were pleasantly surprised by how much ice there was and how good the conditions were. The snow was in great shape getting up to the start of the route, and the route itself was pretty much all sinker ice, some alpine, some bulletproof, blue waterfall. There were 3 rock bands which comprised the difficulties (~M2??). Traversed over to Keiner's at the top as the clouds rolled in and the lightning started across the valley (we saw it start a fire, which was nice). Made it up and over and got snowed on coming down the N Face for a full value outing.

When we were hiking down we stopped at the junction of the Chasm Lake trail and talked to two guys who had climbed the smear on the right side of Meeker (circled in yellow on jfox's post). One was a guy named Doug from Ft Collins and the other was visiting from back East somewhere. They said that Kelly Cordes had been up there the day before and gave them the beta. It sounded like it was really festive and the (lack of) pro was a bit spicy, but the ice was climbable. I think they said they climbed out through a big roof at the top and the whole thing was fairly difficult.

My partner had been up to Meeker the day before and started up Right Chimney but said the ice wasn't really in, and said that Dreamweaver just looked bad. I have climbed DW in the fall when it was just loose snow over gravel (very accurate description, George!) and while it was good practice for dry tooling and crampon scratching up chimneys and gullies, I can't really say I enjoyed it. Definitely best in the spring with a fat ribbon of alpine ice.

Alexander's was definitely in and looked awesome. Couldn't see the very top but the bottom sections looked great from Lamb's. It would be a sweet combo with the Notch right now. Enjoy!!

Here's the best shot of the Notch I got on 10/11/08

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It does appear to be holding great alpine ice and mixed sections!

I was up there on Sunday, 10/19 and got a good look look around while climbing TFB Couloir. Dreamweaver looked very similar to when I was on it two weeks ago--pretty bare. The snow was great, nice and consolidated, but there was just not too much AI although it is still a fine climb if you want to do it a little mixed. TFB was great--really a snow climb and a short section of AI2/3. The Notch, which I did last year in similar conditions looked good and doable, albeit a little thinner. I did not get a good look at Alexanders, but from what I saw, it would be lean. SoF did not have the bottom. The Loft looked fun and the best ice in the area. Peacock was starting to come in. Overall, things are still coming in and with the next 10 day weather window, I think AI will form up even more nicely--no big snows, hopefully, just some dustings with great freeze/thaw.