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Routes in Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ansaid Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binou's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Ocean T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dad Bod T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hermanos T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Drainpipe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dust to Dusk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Elephant Ear AKA Fish Taco T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Elephant Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fuel Injected Hardbody T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Generic Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Half Shark-Alligator, Half Man T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Jarni Zvrat-Ky (lower part of Dust to Dusk) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Let 'er Buck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Mr. Peanut T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naked and Dead, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Naked and the Dead Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Owl Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rainbow Sign T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Shank Face T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Sister Skywalker T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Sleeve of Wizard T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Thing, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twitterpated T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (L of Dos Hermanos) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown AKA Reclamation T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Pod Climb. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Violently Happy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Waiting Line, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | n/a |
| Page Views: | 4,325 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Oct 12, 2001 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is after Elephant man and just before Dos Hermanos. Only P1 is listed in any of the guide books and it goes at about 5.9. The first pitch splits a big block and is relatively short - probably no more than 60'. It ends at a ledge with nice Fixe anchor bolts. Belay from this ledge even if you only want to do P1 and rap when you are done.
P2 is the business. Leave the ledge on the crack to the right of the anchors. Basically, the crack gets wider towards the top, but the first 3rd of it stays pretty much in the 1.5 Friend to 1.75 Friend size. I hate these sizes. I was able to chimney for part of the upper section, which is kind of a flaring slot with gear in the back. My second, a little bit better of a climber than me, called the pitch 10+/11-. This is what I though it was, but I'll err on the side of caution, since it was a seasonal warm-up. The route only gets 2 stars because the top of P2 gets a little sandy. Remember that 2 stars in the Creek is better than 3 stars at many other places.This pitch is no longer than 80' since I lowered from the anchors (through my own biners of course!) back to the ledge on 50m doubles.
The nice things about this route are that it is not the same move over and over, but is still a crack, and the hordes were too busy with nearby chocolate corner and all the others.
P2 is the business. Leave the ledge on the crack to the right of the anchors. Basically, the crack gets wider towards the top, but the first 3rd of it stays pretty much in the 1.5 Friend to 1.75 Friend size. I hate these sizes. I was able to chimney for part of the upper section, which is kind of a flaring slot with gear in the back. My second, a little bit better of a climber than me, called the pitch 10+/11-. This is what I though it was, but I'll err on the side of caution, since it was a seasonal warm-up. The route only gets 2 stars because the top of P2 gets a little sandy. Remember that 2 stars in the Creek is better than 3 stars at many other places.This pitch is no longer than 80' since I lowered from the anchors (through my own biners of course!) back to the ledge on 50m doubles.
The nice things about this route are that it is not the same move over and over, but is still a crack, and the hordes were too busy with nearby chocolate corner and all the others.
Protection
For P1, bring 1.5 - 4 Friends. This pitch is short enough where you can get away with one of everything. If you want to sticth it, bring another 3.5 Friend/3 Camalot and a 4 Camalot.
P2 is the business, so bring sizes 1 to 4 Friends.Bring many 1.5 Friends and 0.75 Camalots. The anchor on this pitch sux, so if you have a drill, sink an angle or another bolt up there and add a new sling.
P2 is the business, so bring sizes 1 to 4 Friends.Bring many 1.5 Friends and 0.75 Camalots. The anchor on this pitch sux, so if you have a drill, sink an angle or another bolt up there and add a new sling.
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