Crabby Appleton
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.2 from 20 votes
Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Harrison, Broussard, Van Betten, 1982 |
Page Views: | 2,655 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 18, 2007 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Crabby Appleton is a faint crack system that travels up the right wall of the Crabby Appleton Gully. Start on a large ledge just below a traversing line of huecos. Pitch 1: Climb up and then right along the huecos, eventually gaining a crack heading upward. Ascend the crack to a stance. 130', 5.7 Pitch 2: Climb the crack, pass an intermediate belay stance with a bad bolt, climbing to a better stance with a bolt and a pin. 190', 5.8 Pitch 3: Continue up the crack, following the corner on the left as it arches up and left. When it begins to arch severely, step right onto the face and follow it to the ledge above. 120', 5.9 Pitch 4: Climb right 20', then head up a faint crack system through an overhang and follow it to the summit. 120', 5.9 Descent: Walk toward the canyon proper (northwest), following the ridge until some steep 4th class or a short rappel off to the right (east) leads to a gully/ramp system heading back into Crabby Appleton gully. From here, follow the gully for 5-10 minutes back to the base of the route.
Location
Follow the right hand wall of the Crabby Appleton gully up past a small chockstone and a waterfall to the base of a monstrous chockstone. Climb up on the right side of it, squeezing through the top. From here, walk up about 20-30', and make your way to a nice ledge on the right hand side about 20' up.
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