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Morning Glory Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Morning Glory Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Amazing Feets of Glory S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Ants in My Shoe T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Baby Bear Layback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bear Down On It! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Bear Minimum T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Bearington Bear Goes Boltin' S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chris Wilson Made Me Do It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Church of Climbintology S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Dingo, Dango, Dyno S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Disco Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Drill 'em and Fill 'em S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Gone Fishing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ian’s Route #2 S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jerr Bear's Final Lick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Krylon Deficiency T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Nemesis S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Nothin' Butt a Rainy Day Thang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Nothin' Butt a Thang! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Old Trad Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rico Suave Made Me Do It T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Slabsters Lament S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smokey Bear Sidepull S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Teddy Bear Two Step S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Temptation of the Left Layback S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	There's a Bear! Where? Right There! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tree Sawga, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	UnBearably Yellow Spider S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Description

This is a hidden gem across the river from Zuma Rock. You will find a mix of sport routes, mixed routes, and trad climbs.

Upper Wall

A. Old Trad Crack, 5.9, 1p, gear & bolt.

B. Drill 'Em And Fill 'Em, 5.10-, 1p, bolts.

C. Nothin' But a Thang, 5.9, 1p, bolts & gear.

D. Nothin' But A Rainy Day Thang, 5.9, 1p, bolts.

E. Nemesis, 5.10d, 1p, bolts.

F. Gone Fishing, 5.7+, 1p, gear.

G. Church Of Climbintology, 5.10b, 1p, bolts.

H. Rico Suave Made Me Do It, 5.9, 1p, gear.

I. Slabsters Lament, 5.10, 1p, bolts.

J. Disco Boy, 5.9+, 1p, gear & bolt.

K. Amazing Feets of Glory, 5.10c, bolts.

L. Ian's Route #2, 5.8, gear.

Middle Wall

A. Ants In My Shoe, 5.8, 1p.

B. Temptation Of The Left Layback, 5.11, 1p, bolts.

C. UnBearably Yellow Spider, 5.10c, 1p, bolts.

D. Chris Wilson Made Me Do It, 5.8.

Lower Wall

A. Ralph Fickel Memorial Route, 5.9+, 1p, gear.

B. Levitation, 1p, bolts.

C. Baby Bear Layback, 5.9+, 1p, gear.

D. The Tree Sawga, 5.10, 1p, bolts.

E. Jerr Bear's Final Lick, 5.11b, 1p, bolts.

F. Bear Down On It, 5.10-, 1p, gear & bolts.

G. Teddy Bear Two Step, 5.10-, 1p, bolts.

H. Bear Minimum, 5.9R, 1p, bolts & gear.

I. Bearington Bear Goes Boltin', 8, 1p, bolts.

J. There's A Bear, Where, Right There, 11-, 1p, bolts & gear.

K. Fingerbanger, 5.10a PG13, bolts.

L. Dingo Dango Dyno, 5.10a, bolts.

Getting There

Head to the Zuma Rock pullout, it is on the south side of the road near a barrel. You can see Morning Glory directly across the river. Head down to the river (there is a path of least resistance that limits erosion), cross the log bridge and head up the bank to an old service road. There will be a path in the trees to your right marked with cairns.

Update: As of Fall 2020, the log bridge has been rebuilt. Per Alex Morano: there is a fallen over tree that can be used to cross right at the Zuma Rock pulloff. You can also just cross the river here when the water is low.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Morning Glory Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 5 ● Gone Fishing Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Baby Bear Layback Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● Bearington Bear Goes Boltin' Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Disco Boy Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● Nothin' Butt a Rainy Day Thang Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R 5 ● Krylon Deficiency Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Teddy Bear Two Step Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 6 ● UnBearably Yellow Spider Sport