Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Fraser Valley > Western Chilliw… > Mt Slesse > Northeast Buttress (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

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North ridge of slesse looking south from the crossover descent

Cross over descent looking north. The crossover runs the ridge until dropping down left, then through the pass

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4.5 from 4 votes

John Steiger

Sep 3, 2008

“Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.”

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Nearby Photos

Flex romping up the upper buttress<br>
photo by Jeff kennedy

Photo Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

NE Buttress

Last tower on descent

North ridge of slesse looking south from the crossover descent

Allen Sanderson following the 5.10+ pitch encountered on the direct start during an August 3-4, 2008 ascent. This appears to be a variation to the direct start described in McClane's guide.

Cross over descent looking north. The crossover runs the ridge until dropping down left, then through the pass

Google Earth Overlay of Approach and Crossover Descent.

Chaz on top

Looking back down to the bivouac ledge.

The immaculate ridge in silhouette on the morning descent

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Running across the approach slab below the remnants of the pocket glacier

The next day, morning at the forested knoll on the descent, looking into the Slesse Creek drainage. It rained all day.

View from large bivy

Climbing around onto the ridge from the end of the cutoff ramp

Chaz and John at the summit.

Talk about deluxe accommodations at the bivy…

Waiting....

Eric Scranton showing off his Bypass Glacier footwear - August 2002

On the Bypass Glacier bedrock, with the wooded ridge between the Slesse and Bypass glaciers in the background.

Charging into a simul block in the clouds.

Slesse, from crossover pass area.

On the crest

At the bivvy ledge

Leading up out of the bivvy ledge. We simul-climbed this for 3-4 pitches.<br>
Summit ridge above.

Below the summit ridge

Pocket glacier on Mt. Slesse, August 12, 2016. Some years the pocket glacier slides by mid-August, some years it hangs around until late-September. 2016 is looking like a late-September year....

The Propeller Cairn

Above the bypass ramp, with the cirque below. The memorial plaque is marked.

Eric Scranton starting the standard descent route on the south side of Slesse - August 2002

Eric Scranton near the top - August 2002. Notice how much more snow compared some recent shots.

Evening south side of Slesse on the old traditional descent - August 2002. Did know much of anything about the Crossover option so played it safe and took the long way home.

Eric Scranton climbing thru the maze of the Bypass Glacier in August 2002. Bit of a puzzle but we eventually solved it without too much backtracking.

Washington State.<br>
Name that mountain....

Eric Scranton midway down the std descent route - August 2002. Shuksan in the far distance.

Steep snow on the Crossover Pass descent. A bit sketchy with approach shoes.

Grassy slope under Wooded Stump, one day after large landslide. Photo taken from NEB of Slesse.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

Looking down on the Bypass glacier bedrock

At the summit. The descent starts on the far side of the bowl/snowfield.

Crux 5.10a pitch. We felt that this was more like a stout 5.9.

On the Crossover Pass descent.

The parallel finger cracks on the upper 5.9 ("incredible" Beckey Topo) are gone. The entire block broke off! (Permission from Colin Haley for Honnold photo)

NE Buttress Route<br>
Approx. location of the first rappel.

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