Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Scott Halliday |
Page Views: | 881 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Alexander Nees on Oct 31, 2007 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is one of the most unusual and asthetic climbs on the New Side. Only sandy rock and a dangerously inadequate bolting job prevent it from receiving 3 or 4 stars. Climb the flakes and edges to the base of the obvious crescent-shaped arch feature with a finger crack. Stemming, fingerlocks, and underclinging, with great moves and delicate balance, take you to the end of the arch, and up over the top. Careful of loose rock on the topout.
Unfortunately, the second bolt is SO high that you WILL deck (from ~25 feet up) if you fall at that point in the climb. The runout is made worse by the soft, sandy nature of the rock in that section of the climb. NOT a recommended lead for these reasons. You could bring supplementary gear to use between bolts 1 and 2, but the rock is soft enough to make any gear very suspect. Best toproped by climbing either "Time Bandits" or "Chai Tea" and traversing right to the anchor. Highly recommended as a toprope climb, one of the best at Mentmore.
Unfortunately, the second bolt is SO high that you WILL deck (from ~25 feet up) if you fall at that point in the climb. The runout is made worse by the soft, sandy nature of the rock in that section of the climb. NOT a recommended lead for these reasons. You could bring supplementary gear to use between bolts 1 and 2, but the rock is soft enough to make any gear very suspect. Best toproped by climbing either "Time Bandits" or "Chai Tea" and traversing right to the anchor. Highly recommended as a toprope climb, one of the best at Mentmore.
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