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Routes in Mosaic Rock
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Areted Development T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baby Cakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Better Red Than Dead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bienvenidos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Black Streak T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Bleeds No More T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chicken Heads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chicken Shit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clean Green Dream T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cryin' in the Rain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Black Nightmare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirty Diagonal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Doctor Yousuf's Gang S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dung Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fine Little Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Five Years After T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Forever and a Day T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fried Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holthouse In A Haulbag T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Holthouse to Hell T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jug or Not S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mama Jugs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mamma Gnamma T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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MSMACITU (Matt Samet, Most Awesome Climber In The Universe) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite of Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Safety First T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Seaman Girl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Serpent Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Serpentine Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Summer Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Suprise-Suprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Techtonics T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Techweenie S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Threshold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Toothy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Walking Dread T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Sep 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Seasonal Raptor Nesting.
Details
The remainder are on US Forest Service land. A map detailing the public areas can be obtained from the ranger station en route to the rocks from the village of Tres Piedras.
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
According to Jan Studebaker: "The property line mountainproject.com/v/new_m… runs from approximately the current east corner by the access gate in a straight line over the top of South Rock to the top middle of the Chicken Heads/Mosaic Wall mount, and from there west down the mount slope to the meadow just south of the Alley climbs. Some of the most popular routes are completely on private property. There are survey markers on the top of South rock (the mysterious aluminum stake stuck in the rock) and on top of the Mosaic rock (most of the time buried in water in a pot hole.)"
An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.
The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.
In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.
Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
This unfortunately-named climb starts out with 30 feet of actual, thrutchy offwidth crack climbing, and then transitions into a face climb through a licheny area of semi-detached plates. The crux is near the bottom of the offwidth, as you're trying to gain entrance to the crack. Protects fairly well throughout, if you've got the big cams.
This route is not described in any of the modern guides, but is noted in the old-time guide. However, if you carefully read Jackson's (2006) description of Summer Dreams and compare it to the old-time guide's description of that same route, I think Jackson actually directs the climber to start at the base of Summer Dreams and to top out on Dung Alley's anchors instead of the actual top of Summer Dreams (which appears to have a bolted anchor about 20 feet right and 10 feet below Dung Alley's anchor, see the MP.com beta photo).
This route is not described in any of the modern guides, but is noted in the old-time guide. However, if you carefully read Jackson's (2006) description of Summer Dreams and compare it to the old-time guide's description of that same route, I think Jackson actually directs the climber to start at the base of Summer Dreams and to top out on Dung Alley's anchors instead of the actual top of Summer Dreams (which appears to have a bolted anchor about 20 feet right and 10 feet below Dung Alley's anchor, see the MP.com beta photo).
Location
On the far northeastern end of Mosaic Rock. Walk around the east end of the dome, pass the bottom of the standard descent gully, and continue for about another 125 feet. The old-time guide notes that you will "trip over a large detached buttress, climb it." The left side of the detached pillar/buttress is marked by a prominent left-arching offwidth crack.
I'm pretty sure this is the correct detached buttress mentioned in the old guide, because of its close proximity to Summer Dreams, which is also described in the old-time guide. If this offwidth route is not Dung Alley, someone let me know.
Two fairly new bolts provide an anchor located at a good stance that lies about 10 feet below the top of the climb. I don't know if you can rap all the way to the ground from this point. I have only ever climbed past the bolts to the top of the formation and walked off the standard descent. I'm not convinced these bolts were necessary, because it's an easy thing to summit and walk off. However, their placement near the top of the climb does allow good communication with the second climber, which might be greatly impeded if you top out and build a belay back from the edge.
I'm pretty sure this is the correct detached buttress mentioned in the old guide, because of its close proximity to Summer Dreams, which is also described in the old-time guide. If this offwidth route is not Dung Alley, someone let me know.
Two fairly new bolts provide an anchor located at a good stance that lies about 10 feet below the top of the climb. I don't know if you can rap all the way to the ground from this point. I have only ever climbed past the bolts to the top of the formation and walked off the standard descent. I'm not convinced these bolts were necessary, because it's an easy thing to summit and walk off. However, their placement near the top of the climb does allow good communication with the second climber, which might be greatly impeded if you top out and build a belay back from the edge.
Protection
Lemme guess: you've got a pair of # 5 and 6 camalots or friends that are still shiny and new. Break 'em out.
A single set of cams to #6 would suffice, if you don't mind walking the #6 up with you. Two #4s or 5s would be reassuring in places, though. Hand-sized cams will work once you get out of the offwidth.
As of August 2008 there was some tatty sling and cord, with a single screw-link, hung on the anchor bolts.
A single set of cams to #6 would suffice, if you don't mind walking the #6 up with you. Two #4s or 5s would be reassuring in places, though. Hand-sized cams will work once you get out of the offwidth.
As of August 2008 there was some tatty sling and cord, with a single screw-link, hung on the anchor bolts.
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