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Routes in Plumb Line Gully
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A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Acute Angle Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Boomerang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Calderone Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Euphorbia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Filthy Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 |
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Hangman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Plumb Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | 1st pitch: Lynn Wheeler and Jeff Newsome. 2nd pitch: Jeff Newsome and Les Ellison. Circa 1980/81 |
| Page Views: | 5,618 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Sukow on Sep 19, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Follow the regular approach to plumb line, but go right up the plumb line gully rather than left to plumb line. Bushwack a ways up the gully until a right leaning finger crack appears to your left. Pitch 1 climbs a rising traverse up the crack using a cool mix of liebacking and finger locks. Expend good fingers coupled with exfoliating granite foot holds (these should clean up with more traffic). The second pitch is 5.9- s. If you're in the area of plumb line, this climb is well worth doing.
Protection
Nuts and small cams. Doubles or triples of green and yellow aliens are advised. Due to the rising traverse on the first pitch, either back cleaning or a fair amount of small cams are needed to avoid ground fall. Don't forget to protect the second. There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.
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