Surrealistic Pillar
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.1 from 740 votes
Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | K. Edsburg, M. Edsburg, J. Sublette, 1963 |
Page Views: | 47,780 total · 191/month |
Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 28, 2003 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This excellent route ascends the entire length of the Lower Buttress, bringing you up out of the giant forest below and high enough so you think you're way the hell up. Then you top out, and realize that the main wall of Lover's Leap hovers over you, and that you're a mere peon in between the giant walls of horizontal dykes.
For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches.
Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first set of bolts. Then walk a little more to the second set of bolts, which is Pillar of Society (.12a). The next crack is the Direct Start of Surrealistic Pillar (.10a), and finally you'll be on a tier with a flat face and a couple of large horns about 15 - 20 feet off the ground. You're here.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the horns, and continue up and left to a well protected crack system to a wide (4") left facing crack.
Pitch 2: Follow this crack up for about 4 dykes, where you need to cross to a large horn. Follow this around the arete, where you can belay from a ledge.
Pitch 3: Simple. Go up the face with large jugs and belay from something suitable up top.
For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches.
Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first set of bolts. Then walk a little more to the second set of bolts, which is Pillar of Society (.12a). The next crack is the Direct Start of Surrealistic Pillar (.10a), and finally you'll be on a tier with a flat face and a couple of large horns about 15 - 20 feet off the ground. You're here.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the horns, and continue up and left to a well protected crack system to a wide (4") left facing crack.
Pitch 2: Follow this crack up for about 4 dykes, where you need to cross to a large horn. Follow this around the arete, where you can belay from a ledge.
Pitch 3: Simple. Go up the face with large jugs and belay from something suitable up top.
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